I have read that other places too. It’s to bad I had a spare fox body rear end I sold a while back. Left over parts from my old GT. I might be able to get my hands on one cheap a buddy of mine has a notch back drift car he has a ton of spare parts.
1985 Monte SS drag car build
- Thread starter DysonSS
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Nhra rule is 6 point roll bar at 11.49. And yes it has to go through to the frame. Make the rear down bars weld over the rear spring seats.
1/8" is pretty light, it may pull/twist a little for pads, l used 1/4". Even when l boxed the frame l used 1/4" but alot of people do box with 1/8".
My Engine is built to handle 1500hp at the crank. I still haven't figured out if l want blower or turbos.
I guess the point l'm trying to get across is plan for the future builds, cause we'll always want more once we get use to one thing.
My Engine is built to handle 1500hp at the crank. I still haven't figured out if l want blower or turbos.
I guess the point l'm trying to get across is plan for the future builds, cause we'll always want more once we get use to one thing.
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1/8” plate is fine for boxing the frame. 1/8” plate is heavier than the metal the frame is made out of. And a true cage stiffens the car up by tying the front boxed frame to the rear boxed frame.
Got the other side done. There is more clearance on the passenger side that’s how it was from the factory. I didn’t want to take to much out on the drivers but there is still enough room to clear the 295/50 on a 15x10 weld draglites with 5.5” of backspacing. I’d like to use the Nitto 555 325/50/15 but they may be to much.
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