BUILD THREAD 1987 Cutlass Salon T-Top Frankenstein build
- Thread starter Gozer442
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pontiacgp uses an F Body spring isolator on the rear so the rear coils can be trimmed. He might chime in on this or PM him. He's posted the part numbers a thousand times. **edit, the isolator part number is in post number 8 here....
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/stock-ride-height-bump-stops-work-well.60826/
On the front end, try the ZQ8 bumpstops as UNGN has often recommended. Evidently they act as a secondary spring and it doesn't feel like it is bottoming....
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/stock-ride-height-bump-stops-work-well.60826/
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/stock-ride-height-bump-stops-work-well.60826/
On the front end, try the ZQ8 bumpstops as UNGN has often recommended. Evidently they act as a secondary spring and it doesn't feel like it is bottoming....
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/stock-ride-height-bump-stops-work-well.60826/
Ha! That's my son who helped me put the motor in! Great kid! Wacky sense of humour, and loves to go fast! We watched Monty Python's Quest for the Holy Grail recently...a real bonding moment.
Well, it's been a while since I've posted any updates on the Cutlass. There hasn't been any progress made on it...I've just enjoyed driving it!
A couple of items I did look at over the past year were...
1. Sluggish at WOT - there was a leak in the secondaries diaphragm for the Holley 4150...easy replacement...FULL POWER NOW!
2. Would not start - the one and only time the Cutlass failed me when I was on my way to a cruise night. I pulled into the local grocery store to get some take-out at the hot food counter, and the starter just clicked. It was just my daughter and son with me, and a local friend gave us a lift home(10 minutes away). The starter had died. I had replaced the solenoid when I put the motor in, but didn't check the internals on the starter itself. Once I got the Cutlass home, I replaced the starter with one I had just rebuilt. So, to replace the starter on my Cutlass... a big PITA!!! Unbolt header, unbolt engine mount, disconnect battery, raise car, unbolt collector, lift/tilt engine towards pass side, remove header, disconnect wiring, unbolt header.... rinse and repeat! Ugh. I'm not even sure that a mini starter would make things easier in my situation. At least it starts effortlessly now.
3. The suspension is way too low in the front! - Ya, it looks cool, but not practical...it bottoms out, and scrapes the collector flanges from time to time. I'll be replacing the front springs very soon (Moog?), and the collector gaskets...with Remflex parts.
Some other plans for this spring and early summer...finish new doors...replace door and T-Top gaskets...service the gauge cluster wiring/contacts... replace the dash/cover up the dash... replace headliner... and find a stronger posi rear end before the 7.5 grenades!
I'll get some pics up when I start the work.
Cheers!
A couple of items I did look at over the past year were...
1. Sluggish at WOT - there was a leak in the secondaries diaphragm for the Holley 4150...easy replacement...FULL POWER NOW!
2. Would not start - the one and only time the Cutlass failed me when I was on my way to a cruise night. I pulled into the local grocery store to get some take-out at the hot food counter, and the starter just clicked. It was just my daughter and son with me, and a local friend gave us a lift home(10 minutes away). The starter had died. I had replaced the solenoid when I put the motor in, but didn't check the internals on the starter itself. Once I got the Cutlass home, I replaced the starter with one I had just rebuilt. So, to replace the starter on my Cutlass... a big PITA!!! Unbolt header, unbolt engine mount, disconnect battery, raise car, unbolt collector, lift/tilt engine towards pass side, remove header, disconnect wiring, unbolt header.... rinse and repeat! Ugh. I'm not even sure that a mini starter would make things easier in my situation. At least it starts effortlessly now.
3. The suspension is way too low in the front! - Ya, it looks cool, but not practical...it bottoms out, and scrapes the collector flanges from time to time. I'll be replacing the front springs very soon (Moog?), and the collector gaskets...with Remflex parts.
Some other plans for this spring and early summer...finish new doors...replace door and T-Top gaskets...service the gauge cluster wiring/contacts... replace the dash/cover up the dash... replace headliner... and find a stronger posi rear end before the 7.5 grenades!
I'll get some pics up when I start the work.
Cheers!
Well, I found it. After a few months of searching, I bought a '90s Mustang 8.8 to replace the 7.5 w/2.29 gears. The outside condition of the axle has very little surface rust, and has all the accessories attached. They guy I got it from was parting out a rusted shell that had a number of go-fast parts on it. he hand no idea what the gears were, but was sure something was done to the rear. As soon at I got it back to the house, I pull off the cover and...
What a nice surprise! 373 gears! The brakes and drums are in great shape too! Not bad for $150.
Can anyone ID the manufacturer of the gearset?
The only parts I'll need are...
1. Pinion flange and U-joint
2. Adjustable upper control arms
3. Brake lines
4. Mustang wheels
So, first off... what pinion flange/U-joint combo should I be looking for to attach my GM drive shaft?
Second, who has a used set of adjustable control arms I can buy... or can I fab some up with the stock GM ones?
Thanks!
What a nice surprise! 373 gears! The brakes and drums are in great shape too! Not bad for $150.
Can anyone ID the manufacturer of the gearset?
The only parts I'll need are...
1. Pinion flange and U-joint
2. Adjustable upper control arms
3. Brake lines
4. Mustang wheels
So, first off... what pinion flange/U-joint combo should I be looking for to attach my GM drive shaft?
Second, who has a used set of adjustable control arms I can buy... or can I fab some up with the stock GM ones?
Thanks!
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