231 Buick "Oil Pressure Problems"

[truracer20]

You can change the gears and relief spring easy enough but the aluminum housing usually has more wear. I would replace both and the timing set while it's open. The engine won't live long when you start hearing lifter clatter.
http://www.silver-seal.com/product/6571KTS/Buick-Timing-Cover-Kit-Alum-Hi-Volume-Master-Kit.html
If I wanted to keep the 231 alive this is what I would do.
,
If you replace the gears or use the above kit then remember,
When the instructions with the gears say pack the cavity full of petroleum jelly, they mean pack it FULL to the point there is absolutely NO air spaces left in the cavity ANYWHERE....It's important.

You would need a dampner puller to do this job.
It's not a hard job to do and is outlined in repair manuals. Take pictures as you go while taking it apart they will help in putting it together.

 

[truracer20]

Of course the PO may have just been saying that it had oil pressure problems simply because they don't build a lot of pressure like a SBC with a high pressure pump. Before going too crazy I would put an oil pressure gauge on it and see what it's actually doing.

 

[techg8]

^^^ Agree

get a gage installed and see whats what.

stock Buick engines typically suffer from low oil pressure at idle when hot. Counter it with a heavier oil. booster plate and new gears can help if the original is worn.

If you want to go minimalist, just go with a heavier oil. at least its not knocking. If you had a real problem it would be.

 

[RustRocket]

Blake442 is right; upon closer inspection, my timing cover appears to be leaking quite badly, as well as the filter adapter/pump area. Thanks for the help everyone

 

[liquidh8]

If the pump, gears, booster plate, and timing cover are rebuilt/serviced, these 231's can have great oil pressure at idle and hot. It just needs some love. Scoot over the the turbobuick boards, we all run these engine, but boosted, haha.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Buick 231s do not have very good oil systems compared to a stock SBC. The oil pump housings wear out because they are made of soft aluminum with hard steel gears chewing it away. Also many of the oil holes inside the block are not well matched or lined up.

 

[82GPLJ455]

Back in high school i used to put a crank kit in atleast 1 231 a week.the problem back then was nylon timing gear teeth and the invention of silicone.if it wasnt timing gear teeth sucked up into the oil pump it was ribbons of silicone.

My car has the 4.1 in it,same as the 231.oil light flickered at idle in gear and could hear the bearings start squeeking when it got hot.stuffed a crank kit in it last year,didnt bother with the oil pump itself.my pan was full of timing gear teeth.

I wasnt concerned with how long it would last as i planned on the soon to come 455 swap.that 4.1 is still running strong with about 10 PSI at hot idle and gets awesome fuel mileage.


If youre gonna try to save the engine id suggest dropping the oil pan and checking it and the oil pickup for gear teeth.the pan will come out with engine still in the car.or pull the timing cover(should be replaced due to wear from oil pump gears) and flush the pan out with diesel fuel,trying to wash any gear teeth that may be in there out the drain plug.

 

[78 Cutlass]

231's end up with 2-3-4 psi oil psi at idle, which wipes out the crank bearings. Agree with the oil pump mods, etc, but in the mean time, you can add 1-2 steel washers to the end of the oil pump pressure relief spring, which will raise your min oil psi +5 to 10 psi. The General rule is 10 psi per 1000 rpms. S/B 350 Chevy, typically have 15-20 psi at idle, or more..