350 olds build questions..

[G-Body_Vet]

Before you go juggling heads, I'd start out with taking care of the short block build first. Then if it's feasible, I'd look around for a reasonably priced set of 5, 6, 7 or 7A heads from '68-72 since they had 64cc chambers.

At least then you can have the block's deck height where it needs to be and THEN decide if you want to run dished or flat top pistons and which heads will be the best option. Discuss all of this stuff with the machine shop before you start pissing away money.

I made the mistake of building my Pontiac heads first (because I ran with what everyone said was best) and the chambers are slightly smaller than ideal after they required milling to clean up the surface. I wanted to run flat tops, but since my block is zero decked now my compression will be too high. Now I HAVE to run a dished piston or consider shelling out cash for aluminum heads instead. You see what I'm getting at?

Something else to consider is what kind of build you want to do. Are you just going to do the bare minimal to get this engine running or do you want to blueprint it? Block cleaning, bore & hone w/ torque plate, align honing, decking and turning the crank .010 has me into it for about $900 so far. Pistons & rods still have to be bought, rotating assembly balanced, decision on a cam made, etc, etc.

It adds up fast so it's best to have a plan first and make sure the machine shop is on the same page with you.

 

[sh1ft]

Before you go juggling heads, I'd start out with taking care of the short block build first. Then if it's feasible, I'd look around for a reasonably priced set of 5, 6, 7 or 7A heads from '68-72 since they had 64cc chambers.

At least then you can have the block's deck height where it needs to be and THEN decide if you want to run dished or flat top pistons and which heads will be the best option. Discuss all of this stuff with the machine shop before you start pissing away money.

I made the mistake of building my Pontiac heads first (because I ran with what everyone said was best) and the chambers are slightly smaller than ideal after they required milling to clean up the surface. I wanted to run flat tops, but since my block is zero decked now my compression will be too high. Now I HAVE to run a dished piston or consider shelling out cash for aluminum heads instead. You see what I'm getting at?

Something else to consider is what kind of build you want to do. Are you just going to do the bare minimal to get this engine running or do you want to blueprint it? Block cleaning, bore & hone w/ torque plate, align honing, decking and turning the crank .010 has me into it for about $900 so far. Pistons & rods still have to be bought, rotating assembly balanced, decision on a cam made, etc, etc.

It adds up fast so it's best to have a plan first and make sure the machine shop is on the same page with you.

X2^ If you plan on going that far. If not then talk to the guys at the machine shop and they will have the best advice to get you were you want to be.

 

[TeezySupreme]

Before you go juggling heads, I'd start out with taking care of the short block build first. Then if it's feasible, I'd look around for a reasonably priced set of 5, 6, 7 or 7A heads from '68-72 since they had 64cc chambers.

At least then you can have the block's deck height where it needs to be and THEN decide if you want to run dished or flat top pistons and which heads will be the best option. Discuss all of this stuff with the machine shop before you start pissing away money.

I made the mistake of building my Pontiac heads first (because I ran with what everyone said was best) and the chambers are slightly smaller than ideal after they required milling to clean up the surface. I wanted to run flat tops, but since my block is zero decked now my compression will be too high. Now I HAVE to run a dished piston or consider shelling out cash for aluminum heads instead. You see what I'm getting at?


Something else to consider is what kind of build you want to do. Are you just going to do the bare minimal to get this engine running or do you want to blueprint it? Block cleaning, bore & hone w/ torque plate, align honing, decking and turning the crank .010 has me into it for about $900 so far. Pistons & rods still have to be bought, rotating assembly balanced, decision on a cam made, etc, etc.

It adds up fast so it's best to have a plan first and make sure the machine shop is on the same page with you.

Very well said ill talk to him see what he thinks.

 

[DoubleV]

Cheap forged flat top pistons and a set of 8 heads would be a good choice as it would give you about 9:1 CR with good quench ( everything of course would need to be measured to get an exact CR and quench ) which would work well with your cam ( though there are better cams out there ).

Since the #8's big chambers is actually a benfit to you from a CR standpoint, all you'd need to do is hog out some of the excess material on the exhaust side and they'll flow just as good as the earlier heads.

I've never heard anything good about NAPA doing good machine work, so make sure you've got a guy who actually knows what he's doing or just spend a couple bucks more ( maybe ) and go to someone who has a good rep just to be sure.

 

[TeezySupreme]

Cheap forged flat top pistons and a set of 8 heads would be a good choice as it would give you about 9:1 CR with good quench ( everything of course would need to be measured to get an exact CR and quench ) which would work well with your cam ( though there are better cams out there ).

Since the #8's big chambers is actually a benfit to you from a CR standpoint, all you'd need to do is hog out some of the excess material on the exhaust side and they'll flow just as good as the earlier heads.

I've never heard anything good about NAPA doing good machine work, so make sure you've got a guy who actually knows what he's doing or just spend a couple bucks more ( maybe ) and go to someone who has a good rep just to be sure.

When I go to the shop do I tell him to port it or what and what type of cam would you use?

 

[TeezySupreme]

Cheap forged flat top pistons and a set of 8 heads would be a good choice as it would give you about 9:1 CR with good quench ( everything of course would need to be measured to get an exact CR and quench ) which would work well with your cam ( though there are better cams out there ).

Since the #8's big chambers is actually a benfit to you from a CR standpoint, all you'd need to do is hog out some of the excess material on the exhaust side and they'll flow just as good as the earlier heads.

I've never heard anything good about NAPA doing good machine work, so make sure you've got a guy who actually knows what he's doing or just spend a couple bucks more ( maybe ) and go to someone who has a good rep just to be sure.

When I get the heads done do I ask them to port them?? Annd what type of cam would you use??

 

[DoubleV]

The exhaust side on the 8 heads ( just the bowls I think ) is really the only thing that needs to be done for them to flow on par with the better earlier heads. If you know a competent head porter, then he should know how much work to put into them for better performance at the power level/RPM range you'll be driving it at. A good valve job is always a good thing too, but any head porter will know that.

I would talk to Ultradyne/Bullit or Lunati cams for a cam recomendation if you want to get one that'll work the best. It will depend on your exact CR, gears, stall and other things you may not have the answers to yet. That's why it's always best to just pick the cam last. Off the top of my head, I'd recomend the Voodoo 213/219 duration cam which is just one small step above mine and would be great for a 350 with about 9:1 CR where exellent street manners are a must.

 

[Cutty1]

damn that sucks i bought my motor in in 2010 ad it has the #8 heads... the motor is suppose to be rebuilt to stock.. the block is 68 though ... that kinds bumps me out that these heads are shitty, i hope theres a least a difference from the crappy 307, and yes the motor been sitting on the motor stand since i got it waiting for taxes to pull through so i can throw it in and hopefully be happy with it

 

[TeezySupreme]

The exhaust side on the 8 heads ( just the bowls I think ) is really the only thing that needs to be done for them to flow on par with the better earlier heads. If you know a competent head porter, then he should know how much work to put into them for better performance at the power level/RPM range you'll be driving it at. A good valve job is always a good thing too, but any head porter will know that.

I would talk to Ultradyne/Bullit or Lunati cams for a cam recomendation if you want to get one that'll work the best. It will depend on your exact CR, gears, stall and other things you may not have the answers to yet. That's why it's always best to just pick the cam last. Off the top of my head, I'd recomend the Voodoo 213/219 duration cam which is just one small step above mine and would be great for a 350 with about 9:1 CR where exellent street manners are a must.

The cam shaft size you recommended I cant find it where would I be able to find that at?? O my piston are goin tobe 1.612" the block will match it the heads also valve jov all that so what would be the best cam for that o and they are forged..??

 

[TeezySupreme]

The edlebrock cam I put up of this cam which is better?? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL42-222-4/