350 sbc heat soak

ASharpShark

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Jun 14, 2020
11
3
Also I would replace that alternator belt ASAP and change out that aluminum carb spacer with a phenolic one if you want to help eliminate heat soak to the carburetor. IMO Jomar Performance has the best phenolic carb spacers and I have used many different styles and materials.


View attachment 203173
The belts were being eaten up by a bad harmonic balancer that i have fixed now, but i havent got new belts yet but its on my to do list this weekend. Ill probably buy a phenolic spacer from that website this weekend and see how much it helps, thanks for the reccomendation!
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Supporting Member
Dec 1, 2014
4,830
113
Upstate NY
The spacer is not going to solve your issue. Any interest in answering questions?
 
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565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,126
113
Michigan
The spacer is not going to solve your issue. Any interest in answering questions?
I agree, but it will keep the carburetor cooler and that is a step in the right direction when dealing with heat soak issues, obviously they are a few issues that need to be addressed with his set up.
 
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ASharpShark

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Jun 14, 2020
11
3
Do you have a chin spoiler?

What temp thermostat?

What carb?

What's the timing - base, vacuum advance, and all in? Are you using ported or full manifold as a vacuum advance source?
I have the lip underneath the radiator if that is what a chin spoiler is, never heard it called that before but yes it is there.
There is no thermostat in the car currently but i have two 195F thermostats that both work i can use.
Im not 100% sure on timing as a friend did it for me and my dad but I know the timing is right and i have it marked on the distributor, block and firewall. Right now the vacuum advance is capped off, before it was messing with the timing and we havent hooked it up since we got it running mostly right.
Sorry for the late replies, we have been busy working on multiple other projects.
 

ASharpShark

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Jun 14, 2020
11
3
I would go for the following:
1. Install 180 degree thermostat.
2. Check timing

I run 180 degree thermostat, original 87 AC equipped radiator with and oil cooler, trans cooler in front of it and dual Chrysler e-fans that come on at 180. Drove the car this week with over 102 F outside temp and never got to over 190. I bet the timing is off.
I have a 195F thermostat but my car likes to run at 185 currently unless im heavy on it, it will go to 200 and stay there. Ill have to buy a 180F thermostat, it seems a lot closer to my temperature range then 195F.
 
Oct 14, 2008
8,176
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Try a Robert Shaw 180 high flow thermostat. Do those fans move adequate air? Many of the aftermarket fans suck. Also consider the Grand National rad surround flaps, they help direct all air through the rad. It dropped my temps by at least 20 degrees. I wish I installed the GN surround when I had my 403 in the car.
 
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melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
3,708
113
mass
running a thermostat is a very good idea with a street driven car,w/out one your coolant doesn't spend as much time in the radiator to allow it to do it's job by "exchanging" the temp of said coolant...that thermostat sets the minimum operating temperature only and opens and closes accordingly..after that point the cars cooling system/amount of air flow takes the wheel and sets operating temperature.it's going to run where it wants to run.
 
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ASharpShark

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Jun 14, 2020
11
3
Try a Robert Shaw 180 high flow thermostat. Do those fans move adequate air? Many of the aftermarket fans suck. Also consider the Grand National rad surround flaps, they help direct all air through the rad. It dropped my temps by at least 20 degrees. I wish I installed the GN surround when I had my 403 in the car.
I will buy a thermostat today, they have high flow ones near me ill pick up. Yes, the fans move a lot of air, i would say close to 2x or even more then the original pulley driven fan. I will look for the Gn surround flaps and see if i can find any locally or order any, thank you for the recommendations and ill update with the thermostat hopefully later today.
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
3,241
113
Galaxy far far away
A t-stant does not cause coolant to sit in the block longer to exchange more heat. Slowing coolant flow also slows heat exchange rate causing the engine temps to rise. The restriction increases the coolant pressure inside the block to increase turbulance and reduce hot spots and air pockets. Without a T stant you likely have stagnant coolant hotspots in your block. 200-210 degrees is normal operating temps and ideal for increasing engine life, 180 is too cold. Heat transfers faster with greater temp differences.

Q = M × C × Delta T.
 

abbey castro

G-Body Guru
Oct 31, 2015
668
93
Harker Hts TX
A t-stant does not cause coolant to sit in the block longer to exchange more heat. Slowing coolant flow also slows heat exchange rate causing the engine temps to rise. The restriction increases the coolant pressure inside the block to increase turbulance and reduce hot spots and air pockets. Without a T stant you likely have stagnant coolant hotspots in your block. 200-210 degrees is normal operating temps and ideal for increasing engine life, 180 is too cold. Heat transfers faster with greater temp differences.

Q = M × C × Delta T.
Slowing coolant flow thru the radiator allows the transfer of heat in the coolant to the radiator tubes therefore the cooling fins cooled by the passing air, thus lowers coolant temp. That is a fact Jack! The restriction of the t-stat doesn't increase pressure the radiator cap does. That is a fact Jack!
 
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