pontiacgp said:
Can you take the bushing out of the box bar and replace to a roto, or you have to replace the whole bar?
36MM front sway bar from WS6 T/A
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Can you take the bushing out of the box bar and replace to a roto, or you have to replace the whole bar?
the uppers with the roto joint are adjustable...and that's why I mentioned if you ever wanted to drop in an A body rear you only have to change the part that bolts to the ears
G-Body_Vet said:
You can never find them when you are looking for them. They are a definite upgrade to the F41 bar
Yep, snap oversteer is no fun.
I've done the boxed arms and poly bushings long ago using a kit from Hotchkis. If all you do is drag racing then poly is okay but from my experience, even if a company claims they will make a car handle better it is only in a narrow window.
I switched my rear over to double adjustable uppers with greasable sperical bearings on the frame side and stock rubber bushings in the upper ears of the rear end. Lowers have the same setup except with poly on the rear end side.
The articulation of the rear end is phenominal with this setup.
The down side to using the spherical joints is that they can increase NVH inside the car.
I've done the boxed arms and poly bushings long ago using a kit from Hotchkis. If all you do is drag racing then poly is okay but from my experience, even if a company claims they will make a car handle better it is only in a narrow window.
I switched my rear over to double adjustable uppers with greasable sperical bearings on the frame side and stock rubber bushings in the upper ears of the rear end. Lowers have the same setup except with poly on the rear end side.
The articulation of the rear end is phenominal with this setup.
The down side to using the spherical joints is that they can increase NVH inside the car.
FE3X CLONE said:
What brand arms did you use for the sphericals? I picked up the Spohn uppers with del-sphere bushings they are saying they are pretty friendly on the street and are better than poly and rubber.
79loserbluebu said:
Used the Edelbrock double adjustable arms which are apparently no longer made or were bought out by QA1. But they are essentially very similar to the Sophn bars you have.
The lowers are Currie-trac arms.
It's too bad I didn't make a video of the movement of the rear end when I had the body off the frame so I could let you see the limitations of a the stock 4 link set up. I really contemplated putting a 3 link system in when you see how much binding there is and the lateral movement of the rear axle that is contrary to the way you want to turn. With the uppers that have a spherical bearing or a roto joint the binding is gone and it's nice and tight. I'm getting the lowers I'm getting a roto joint on one end only because the A boy rear I have doesn't have the same geometry of the bracket on the rear as G body rear.
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