4 barrel roch. carb question

[cutlassguy]

on high idle it revs to about 1500. im pretty sure it should be around 1800 or so but i like it at 1500 so its not sitting there screaming in my parkade. im going to adjust that today just before i head out. i'll let ya know how things turn out. thanx for the links!!

 

[cutlassguy]

k i adjusted the pull off and it still stays in high idle. i hit the gas closing the butterflies, pushed in the pull off, then turned the screw until the BF was opened about 1/16 to an 1/8 inch (it was a little over a 1/4 inch opened) and still the same thing. just so im correct, to check the spring im going to take it off and run a wire from the battery to the clip and another to the metal on the inside of the cover and the spring should move? is there a chance im supposed to rest that loop on the end of the spring AGAINST the finger inside the housing instead of around it? just seems like no matter what the motor wants fast idle lol after i push that tab down i barely have to touch the accelerator and she pops back into HI. any other suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated! gonna head out with a multileter and check the clip and connector and probaly take the whole thing out and see if i can absolutly make sure that spring moves when there juice going to it. be back soon!

 

[cutlassguy]

took the choke off and ran straight power to it and it started winding itself up tighter, so i'll assume thats normal and its working right. heres the kicker tho, once i put it back on and the motor was about quarter the way to normal temp, the wieght stayed down by itself now and i took it for a 10 minute boot to warm it up and all of a sudden its just staying at curb idle and running normally, 4 barrels an all. i watched the spring cool down to exactly where it was before i hooked it up directly so im sure i didnt heat it up and then put it back in. checked with a multimeter again and theres 13.97 at the wire clip and connector and i also checked with it hooked to the battery and there was 12 v on both sides, connection and spring. here a video of what the spring looks like. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJg0FE1e ... e=youtu.be

 

[Bonnewagon]

Sounds like you touched whatever was keeping the choke from opening and idle dropping down. If that is the case and the choke closes when cold/opens when hot, then just adjust the choke pull-off so it warms up smoothly just like it has been described . Sounds like you're almost done!

 

[cutlassguy]

nope, not even close lol now its starting in curb idle and staying there even tho the motors cold, not all night cold but 4 hours cold. last time i was out i floored it a few times and now it stutters and bogs out before it takes off. i adjusted the pull off to open about an 1/8 first thing in the morning but it didnt do anything so i monkeyed with it a little after that when the motor was warm to see if i could adjust it just until the choke opened, kinda reverse but none the less now its doing the above so i'll try again tomorrow with the motor completely cold. any idea where i can find an exploded diagram of all those little parts behind the choke? i cant seem to find any. maybe knowing whats all connected to what will help me understand whats all happening with those adjustments. sounds simple but when i did it, it didnt work so aside from trying again, im at a loss...

 

[DoubleV]

Your Google Fu style is weak. My Google Fu style is strong. It took me literally 1 minute to find an exploded view of a Qjet; http://dyeager535.topcities.com/CCCqjetdiagram.html

OK, so when above when you said your fast idle was 1500 RPM, which step on the fast idle cam were you on?

If you go to start it when it's stone cold, you tap the throttle and that 'sets the choke'. Not only does the choke flap close all the way, it also puts the carb linkage onto the highest fast idle step so when you start the car AND DON'T HIT THE THROTTLE AGAIN it should be ideling pretty high, like almost 2k ( it depends ). Now after the car starts and it's ideling at this very high RPM, you can immediately hit the throttle and it should then drop down to a lower step on the fast idle cam, so now it should idle somewhere around 1200 or so. This RPM should be sufficient for you to put it in gear and drive away with no issues. Once the choke coil heats up enough to allow the linkage to 'fall off' the fast idle cam, the carb goes to curb idle.

 

[DoubleV]

nope, not even close lol now its starting in curb idle and staying there even tho the motors cold, not all night cold but 4 hours cold. last time i was out i floored it a few times and now it stutters and bogs out before it takes off. i adjusted the pull off to open about an 1/8 first thing in the morning but it didnt do anything so i monkeyed with it a little after that when the motor was warm to see if i could adjust it just until the choke opened, kinda reverse but none the less now its doing the above so i'll try again tomorrow with the motor completely cold.

Choke coils can get weak over time. Perhaps a new one would work better. If the choke coil is fine and your engine wants some choke action after sitting for 4 hours, this is where not having that tab on the choke housing is a good thing. All you would need to do was loosen the 3 screws on the choke cover and rotate it a little and tighten it back up.

I would try borrowing a known good electric choke and see if that solves your problem. If it does, then that could mean your current choke coil spring is going bad.

 

[cutlassguy]

the more i think about it the less i wanna grind that tab off. it was designed that way so it should work that way kinda thing, also now that i look closer, the tab is exactly where the screw goes in and grinding it off would eliminate about a third of the threads for that screw. i read somewhere that choke springs almost never get weak unless they're super old like 15 yrs old or so and considering this ones in such good looking shape, i cant see it being older than a couple yrs, also when i hooked it up direct, it tightened up nice and about the speed i would imagine it should. i also read i should measure the travel in that little choke finger and energize the choke spring (off carb) to see if it travels the same distance or greater, so im thinking i'll check that out too. its been sitting all night so i'll head out there and try to adjust the pull off again and see what happens.

 

[cutlassguy]

heres another video of exactly what i did to the pull off. whats not on the video is right after i took it for a ride and within a minute or so of driving, the high idle kicked out and it stayed in curb idle until it warmed up. punched it warm and its sputtering hard before it actually kicks in. this is one of the craziest problems i think ive ever had with one of these cars... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zMqSiIS ... 9RaXamMwVC this is cold after sitting all night.

 

[Bonnewagon]

What you did was correct, but try doing it with a vacuum gauge hooked up and adjust it for highest vacuum while it first starts, cold. You only have less than a minute to get it done before the choke coil gets hot, but that way you know it's exactly right. As for the tab, if it is working good leave it alone. Older models had a setting that corresponded with the hash lines on the cover, but yours is a newer style that could only go on one way, meaning the best setting for emissions. If you "had" to adjust it further modifying it is no big deal. I smell success right around the corner!