secondary lock out seems good too, the little linkage rests against it in HI and once the BF is fully opened, and that counter-wieght is down, its about a 1/4 inch away from it.
4 barrel roch. carb question
- Thread starter cutlassguy
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Although it doesn't hurt to try, I doubt you're going to find a 'sweet spot' because choke setting never really need to be that precise.
You didn't state what your RPM's were when you kick it down to the next lower fast idle step. It should be 'around' 1100 but that's where your curb idle is at and that's too high for a curb idle. Your RPM's also drop too much when putting it in gear showing that you need to ( most likely ) adjust the idle mixture screws.
I would turn the fast idle up to about 2k at the highest step ( on a cold motor ) in park. Then when you blip the throttle it should drop to about 1200 ( in park ) or so which is good for driving when the engine's still cold. Once it warms up and you're on curb idle, it should be around 600-700ish in gear but less than 1k when in park.
You didn't state what your RPM's were when you kick it down to the next lower fast idle step. It should be 'around' 1100 but that's where your curb idle is at and that's too high for a curb idle. Your RPM's also drop too much when putting it in gear showing that you need to ( most likely ) adjust the idle mixture screws.
I would turn the fast idle up to about 2k at the highest step ( on a cold motor ) in park. Then when you blip the throttle it should drop to about 1200 ( in park ) or so which is good for driving when the engine's still cold. Once it warms up and you're on curb idle, it should be around 600-700ish in gear but less than 1k when in park.
after adjusting and pissing around probaly 20 times with my choke pull off, ive got it to where it only opens about an 1/8 when first started cold, goes into HI around 1900-2000, i can blip it down to around 1500 right off the bat, then it stays in HI for about 2 minutes of driving, then automatically kicks down to about 1000-1100 in park and 550-650 in gear until it warms up and eventually stays like that once the choke is fully opened. this sounds pretty close aside from it kicking down while its still cold, but ive watched the choke open and it only takes about 1-2 mins so im assuming that just electric chokes for yah. anyhow i have no problems limping it a little until it warms up fully, and everything else seems to be working good (secondaries) so after all that im happy to say its fixxed, or atleast good enough for me. thanx again everyone!
Well done! And yes an electric choke gets hot fast, that was the idea, so as to not run rich too long.
well back to this bulllshit again. the other day i started my 87 up and drove off when it was running like sh*t and chugging out as soon as i put a lil gas to it so not even thinking it could possibly be that ****in pull off again i figured it felt and was responding like there was either a vacuum leak of a bad miss on a couple plugs. so i changed the cap, rotor, wires, checked and regapped all the plugs seeing as how i only changed them a couple months back, but i thought maybe they worked themselves loose or something, anyhow checked all my vacuum lines and they're all minty, adjusted the timing to right on 8 degrees, even triied tightening the carb bolts down and they werent loose at all so i didnt even move em. after none of that worked i remember my plugs were gapped at .045 (champion) and my acdelco's were .035 so i took em all out and regapped them at .035...same sh*t. then while looking at it maybe 3 or 4 minutes after starting it i seen the choke was fully open while the vehicles temp gauge never even began to move. so i let it warm up completely and it still ran like sh*t with the choke fully opened. so long story short i ended up stuffing kleenex again 
to keep the choke from opening more than half way and it ran oookkk at low idle but obviously pooched out once the rpm climbed a bit. i also triied adjusting the pull off a few times to different tightnesses?? and that never changed a thing. i changed the thermostat awhile back and now instead of running at 100, it runs between 40 and 100. anyone know if its just running too cold now and its never at the right temp to operate properly? should i change the thermostat back so it runs at 100 right in the middle? almost considering putting my accent back on the road... 
to keep the choke from opening more than half way and it ran oookkk at low idle but obviously pooched out once the rpm climbed a bit. i also triied adjusting the pull off a few times to different tightnesses?? and that never changed a thing. i changed the thermostat awhile back and now instead of running at 100, it runs between 40 and 100. anyone know if its just running too cold now and its never at the right temp to operate properly? should i change the thermostat back so it runs at 100 right in the middle? almost considering putting my accent back on the road... 
If I understand correctly then the vechicle runs better with the choke closed halfway while its warm. If thats the case there is a vac leak somewhere. When u are closing the choke its taking air away providing a richer mixture. it all boils down to the engine getting unmetered air from somewhere.
cutlassguy said:
100 what? Degrees? No car runs that cold and certainly not between 40 and 100. Where are you getting these numbers from?
For what it's worth, I don't think your problem is choke related.
bill said:
He said Champion.
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