Go ahead and price it out: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1882228-4l70e-build-tbss.html
Tears will flow.
Tears will flow.
Thanks guys,thought the 4l80e would be considerbly heavier and take more room in the tunnel area,but you have convinced me,will probably get a Hughes 750 unit from summit! Will run Holley ecm,mounts,crossmember and headers ,a BTR truck Norris cam/springs and Ls 7 lifters. I have installed a 9” with c5 brakes. Which flexplate will work with this motor trans setup? Thanks again. Rod. Will have low mile L31 crate engine with sniper injection with 200r4,also stock rear ended with possi and new 3:42 gears,new brakes with it,have brackets to install c5 brakes on it!
When I needed a set of lifters, during the covid LS lifter shortage, I found the only budget lifter available were the Sealed Power lifters, and fortunately they were a stock item from Advanced Auto. I've been spinning pretty religiously 7K 8-10 seconds at a time lol without any failures. If you want a one and done program for lifters, then buy a set of Johnson slow leak down. They aren't cheap, but if you have a Johnson lifter fail, then you'll be the only person I know that has ever had that happen.Stay away from the LS7 lifters. There's a much better part number out there, but the LS7 lifters I'm told are much more prone to failure. Also +1 on staying away from 4L60/65/70, I had more than one transmission builder swear up and down they can build one to live behind a blown big block but they're not the one footing the bill when they're proven wrong.
I assume you had the lockup programmed to work well with that converter.4L80E with a 35lb Circle D 4k Stall in my SS behind a stock 5.3l for a bit before I put in the 6.0l & Built T56 was pretty fun actually. Majority of the loss in the 80E is the Convertor, yea the guts inside are heavy but the lighter Convertor makes a great difference.
Well yea lol it's was just the lack of rotating mass in general that greatly helped. Stock 80E Convertor is 80lbs or so. This was a 4k stall rated for my old stroker setup, stock 5.3l literally on the floor with all it had would maybe flash at like 3500 off the hit.I assume you had the lockup programmed to work well with that converter.
does that mean these are the lifters I should buy for my Gen IV LS w/AFM...that failed? I did the cheap fix; disable AFM and knock the lifter loose with a modified pushrod.When I needed a set of lifters, during the covid LS lifter shortage, I found the only budget lifter available were the Sealed Power lifters, and fortunately they were a stock item from Advanced Auto. I've been spinning pretty religiously 7K 8-10 seconds at a time lol without any failures. If you want a one and done program for lifters, then buy a set of Johnson slow leak down. They aren't cheap, but if you have a Johnson lifter fail, then you'll be the only person I know that has ever had that happen.
I assume you had the lockup programmed to work well with that converter.
I removed the AFM cover and solenoids and installed a cover designed to block off the oil ports. Then you can install Gen 3 lifters and pushrods. I believe the part number # of the lifter was HT2148.does that mean these are the lifters I should buy for my Gen IV LS w/AFM...that failed? I did the cheap fix; disable AFM and knock the lifter loose with a modified pushrod.
GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.