HELP 600 hp lq9

[L92 OLDS]

So what do you think the max rwhp is that a stock Gbody frame can handle with new poly body mounts and just basic chassis reinforcements like ones from UMI?

All those things will certainly help. Having a rust free frame and body with new bushings and all the braces is a great first step. whenever I see this topic brought up 400-500 hp seems to be the accepted max limit without boxing your frame but who really knows? I’m not going to find out. My car has all those mods and is just over 400whp and I have not had a problem. The GN guys have been wrinkling fenders and breaking windshields at similar power levels. It also depends on how hard you can hook up…. A problem for me. I’m a little worried about hooking up at the track. I don’t have a turbo car and the torque is there immediately.

G body shuffle Quarter Warp

I was just surfing the tube of you and found this video. The G-body Shuffle its Real! But take notice how the left rear quarter has a dent in the beginning. Check out the last launch at 1:51 min/sec mark. The Qurter panel dent stretches a few inches more!:eek: That's some scary stuff right...

gbodyforum.com

 

[E84MC]

Define "handle"? You want to hook and book? You want to do Youtube burnout videos?

The best question is what is what you want to do in a G-body chassis?

Pick HP, pick transmission, pick driveshaft, pick rear axle. Which one will be the weak link?

G-body 7.5" axle always wins.

Eliminate the axle and work through the

Define "handle"? You want to hook and book? You want to do Youtube burnout videos?

The best question is what is what you want to do in a G-body chassis?

Pick HP, pick transmission, pick driveshaft, pick rear axle. Which one will be the weak link?

G-body 7.5" axle always wins.

Eliminate the axle and work through the rest, the G-body chassis is not the weak link despite what the internet says.

Do you want to eliminate the "G-body shuffle" if you're drag racing? An actual frame mounted anti-roll bar gets rid of that.

Of course I've been drinking and interneting so....

So I was just reading through this and saw L92 OLDS reply (last sentence) and was curios about this. I forget that when you ask questions on here you have to be as specific as possible but now I’m pretty sure I will have no issues. I’m planning on having an ls3 with most likely 500chp at the most, don’t have a drive shaft yet but I have a new t56 magnum f and a 12bolt rear end which might be overkill but hey rear won’t be weakest link anymore. Frame is rust free (Cali car) with poly mounts and planning on getting umi’s chassis reinforcements. No track use just want to have a STREET car that can handle burnouts (not for YouTube or any social media outlet as I have none lol) and nice pulls whenever I feel like it so I’m avoiding the track hooking issues all together.

 

[64nailhead]

So I was just reading through this and saw L92 OLDS reply (last sentence) and was curios about this. I forget that when you ask questions on here you have to be as specific as possible but now I’m pretty sure I will have no issues. I’m planning on having an ls3 with most likely 500chp at the most, don’t have a drive shaft yet but I have a new t56 magnum f and a 12bolt rear end which might be overkill but hey rear won’t be weakest link anymore. Frame is rust free (Cali car) with poly mounts and planning on getting umi’s chassis reinforcements. No track use just want to have a STREET car that can handle burnouts (not for YouTube or any social media outlet as I have none lol) and nice pulls whenever I feel like it so I’m avoiding the track hooking issues all together.

Sounds like a fun ride. You should be fine imo. And you're correct the 12 bolt is overkill, but also, it should last forever. You can get buy without alot of extra reinforcements, but they are much like the rear - no reason not to install them lol.

A proper 4 wheel alignment, all steering components and bushings in good order, and good set of shocks will make all of the difference in the world. If you intend to run factory style shocks, no coil overs, then get some Bilstein B6's.

 

[E84MC]

Sounds like a fun ride. You should be fine imo. And you're correct the 12 bolt is overkill, but also, it should last forever. You can get buy without alot of extra reinforcements, but they are much like the rear - no reason not to install them lol.

A proper 4 wheel alignment, all steering components and bushings in good order, and good set of shocks will make all of the difference in the world. If you intend to run factory style shocks, no coil overs, then get some Bilstein B6's.

Yes I did a frame off so everything you mentioned is new as well. As of now I have Viking coil overs up front and just their 2in drop springs with shocks in the rear but I’m sure I’ll upgrade those to coil overs eventually.

 

[E84MC]

Sorry btravis77 didn’t mean to jack your thread.😬

 

[Ace Burt]

hey everone i just got a lq9. i was thinking of swapping my lt1 out for it. i was wondering how hard would it be to make 600 hp out of it on a budget. any help would great thanks

Forced induction. Be sure that the bottom end is solid. Fresh boost pistons , gapped rings, etc. , heads redone, small boost numbers, new fuel pump system and it will stay together unless you hammer it mercilessly.

N/A is gonna be way more expensive imho to make that power at the wheels. I had a Silverado SS with an LQ9 with tbss intake, ls3 throttle body, long tubes, TX Speed 220 cam, trunnion upgrade, new fuel pump, lines and rails with 100k on it tuned on. Dyno that made 397 rwhp as a point of reference. Without better heads and a new rotation assembly it’s not going to make that much power

I personally don’t think you get 600-650 on a very tight budget without building a grenade or time bomb.

 

[87National]

I personally don’t think you get 600-650 on a very tight budget without building a grenade or time bomb.

Stock iron block 4.8/5.3/6.0 have reliably made 500-600 rwhp....with the only modification to the long block being valve springs.

Start with a gen 4 4.8 ($500)......add a 7875 turbo ($400), injectors ($400), valve springs ($200), cam ($300), fuel system ($500), 2wd 4l80e ($400), torque converter ($500) +~$1,000 in misc expenses.....rework your own harness and tune with hptuners.

Everyone's definition of "budget" is different....but to me some variant of the above will yield a reliable combination at a budget price.

 

[Ace Burt]

Stock iron block 4.8/5.3/6.0 have reliably made 500-600 rwhp....with the only modification to the long block being valve springs.

Start with a gen 4 4.8 ($500)......add a 7875 turbo ($400), injectors ($400), valve springs ($200), cam ($300), fuel system ($500), 2wd 4l80e ($400), torque converter ($500) +~$1,000 in misc expenses.....rework your own harness and tune with hptuners.

Everyone's definition of "budget" is different....but to me some variant of the above will yield a reliable combination at a budget price.

While I respect your opinion you left a lot of parts out of that to go turbo and put some very low numbers in there imho. There is no plumbing for the turbo, exhaust, trunion upgrade, lifters, gaskets, rings, etc. If we could all build 600rwhp for that number it wouldn't make sense to build anything else. Better have fresh trans with it as well. I have built a few LS motors and see the junk yard “one pass wonders” at the track frequently. They run hard……a couple of times….. if something else don’t break first.

 

[scoti]

While I respect your opinion you left a lot of parts out of that to go turbo and put some very low numbers in there imho. There is no plumbing for the turbo, exhaust, trunion upgrade, lifters, gaskets, rings, etc. If we could all build 600rwhp for that number it wouldn't make sense to build anything else. Better have fresh trans with it as well. I have built a few LS motors and see the junk yard “one pass wonders” at the track frequently. They run hard……a couple of times….. if something else don’t break first.

I'll add.... A 2wd 4L80e for $400?? In my area they're $650 up for unknown condition.

 

[64nailhead]

Stock iron block 4.8/5.3/6.0 have reliably made 500-600 rwhp....with the only modification to the long block being valve springs.

Start with a gen 4 4.8 ($500)......add a 7875 turbo ($400), injectors ($400), valve springs ($200), cam ($300), fuel system ($500), 2wd 4l80e ($400), torque converter ($500) +~$1,000 in misc expenses.....rework your own harness and tune with hptuners.

Everyone's definition of "budget" is different....but to me some variant of the above will yield a reliable combination at a budget price.

While I respect your opinion you left a lot of parts out of that to go turbo and put some very low numbers in there imho. There is no plumbing for the turbo, exhaust, trunion upgrade, lifters, gaskets, rings, etc. If we could all build 600rwhp for that number it wouldn't make sense to build anything else. Better have fresh trans with it as well. I have built a few LS motors and see the junk yard “one pass wonders” at the track frequently. They run hard……a couple of times….. if something else don’t break first.

I can speak of 'one hit wonders'. I tried to do it as cheap as possible. FWIW, motor, valve springs and cam are the cheapest part of the deal - that sounds odd, but it's the case. I got burned on injectors and transmission - I've spent an extra $2500 for those two components due to junk, bad repairs or repeat work. I was at $6k the 1st time I hit the dyno (original trans and injectors) and it made 670. I could've knocked about $800 off from that to be at 500whp. To pull it off for $3k with a turbo LS, you need to be damn crafty, frugal and lucky. And you need to have HPTuners and have the ability to use it before you start - I chose Holley for $1K instead.