65 330 olds

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youngwhip said:
i dnt have a tach but i can get a timing light to check timing....but when i turn it down until it stop running and turn it up 1/4 of a turn, it ran pretty good. so i took it down the road but it was kinded running a lot slower then before...is that normal to? if so then why?

Adjust the timing. To do that, you will need a tach. You can get a hand held tach/dwell meter for pretty cheap. What carb and what type of distributor are you using?
 
if it didnt kill the engine when you ran the idle mixture screws all the way in you probably have some crap in there, have a cracked bowl or floats set with a high lvl
also need some info of what you have
age of the motor (when was it last rebuilt)
age of the carb (last rebuilt or how new)
and what you have the timing set @ (8* btdc or what ever lol)

just need to know what you got so we can give you a closer idea of the actual problem 😀
 
youngwhip said:
i dnt have a tach but i can get a timing light to check timing....but when i turn it down until it stop running and turn it up 1/4 of a turn, it ran pretty good. so i took it down the road but it was kinded running a lot slower then before...is that normal to? if so then why?

if you have an electric choke and fast idle on the carb that may explain why it ran even slower after you drove it for a while.

we need more details and that's hard to get through a forum. a pic or two may help. show us the top end of the engine. if we can see it we can have a better idea of what you're working with. we do need info about the carb. what kind is it, did it come with the engine, what type of choke if any...things like that. also is it 2 or 4 barrel?

if you can remember try putting the timing back to where it was and run the engine again and see what happens. you might have to tinker with the idle some more but you're probably in the ballpark of where you need to be. but you also need to know what the operating RPM the idle should be at. this means the engine is completely warmed up and at operating temperature. if its not you cant and shouldnt make adjustments. try to find what the idle should be.

timing should be 7.5 degrees BTDC (before top dead center). i dont know what the idle should be set to yet. 'im still looking.

according to an old hemmings article idle speed is 750 RPM. sounds about right.
 
ok it is a 65 442 330 olds engine the one with a 4 barrel carb.i put it in my 85 cutlass that had a 307 in it, so i take the carb and distributor off the 307 and put it on the 330 engine because the carb that came with the 330 engine didnt have choke on it and plus it didnt have none of the electric inputs on it. both of the carb are Quadrajet. but to think about it now the engine did ran alot better with the carb that came on the 330 engine... but i will get some pic in the morning of the top of the engine..

thanks guys for the help
 
youngwhip said:
ok it is a 65 442 330 olds engine the one with a 4 barrel carb.i put it in my 85 cutlass that had a 307 in it, so i take the carb and distributor off the 307 and put it on the 330 engine because the carb that came with the 330 engine didnt have choke on it and plus it didnt have none of the electric inputs on it. both of the carb are Quadrajet. but to think about it now the engine did ran alot better with the carb that came on the 330 engine... but i will get some pic in the morning of the top of the engine..

thanks guys for the help

woah! did you put a computer controlled distributor in that engine? BAD idea. and put the 330 carb back on. if that Qjet from the 307 is also computer controlled its not going to run right on that 330.
 
G_Body_Enthusiast said:
woah! did you put a computer controlled distributor in that engine? BAD idea. and put the 330 carb back on. if that Qjet from the 307 is also computer controlled its not going to run right on that 330.

Guys have run 350's on the stock CCC system so a 330 shouldn't be too bad.
 
youngwhip said:
ok i have the 330 enigne in my car it runs great.but i have a problem, i crank it up and the engine was iding at about 1700-2000 rpm... now i not crazy and i am new at this, but is that normal for this engine? or do i need to upgrade the distrbutor? i

youngwhip said:
i dnt have a tach but i can get a timing light to check timing


If you didn't have a tach, then how do you know it was idling at 1700-2000rpm???
 
FE3X CLONE said:
G_Body_Enthusiast said:
woah! did you put a computer controlled distributor in that engine? BAD idea. and put the 330 carb back on. if that Qjet from the 307 is also computer controlled its not going to run right on that 330.

Guys have run 350's on the stock CCC system so a 330 shouldn't be too bad.

IF he isnt really using the CCC brain then he shouldnt be using them. even if he is using the CCC stuff it's not going to run as well and even he said it ran better with the 330 carb. not sure why you'd want to put the CCC stuff on a 330 given the non CCC stuff made it run better. i figured he didnt want to but was just using the parts.

so why ruin the performance of your engine? nothing wrong with computer controlled stuff but the CCC stuff sucks. the 81 year was extremely primitive but it didnt get much better. my dualjet tells me that all the time. i dont think computers can make a carb run correctly, humans can have a hard enough time doing it themselves. though timing isnt bad, i've never had a problem with it.

either way the question remains, why use the CCC stuff if you dont need to? i guess my hate for the CCC is clouding my mind.
 
I agree with you, I wouldn't run it either but I don't think it's entirely his problem either.

It would be simple enough to check though. Swap the CCC carb and distributor for a non-CCC carb and HEI and see what happens.

Still though, the 1700-2000rpm at idle is a bit odd. I'm wondering if it was a combination of the idle screw set wrong and the distributor way too advanced.
 
ok after reading this thread AGAIN....

he's having this problem AFTER putting the CCC stuff on.

remove CCC stuff, put old stuff back on, profit.

simple fix here.
 
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