7 mpg and slow

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Thanks for posting up the pics! Sweet setup

So my other questions were why the mixer on top of the Edelbrock? Does your setup still allow you to run gasoline? Have you made any mods to your Edelbrock? Did you disable the choke? That alone could be causing your problems.

Do you have a fuel lock off valve or something to cut fuel to your Edelbrock? Just want to make sure you're not running gasoline and lpg at the same time.

Did you buy your kit new or used? Just trying to help narrow down any issues. Does your mixer have a silicone diaphragm or rubber one?
 
HurstOlds said:
Thanks for posting up the pics! Sweet setup

So my other questions were why the mixer on top of the Edelbrock? Does your setup still allow you to run gasoline? Have you made any mods to your Edelbrock? Did you disable the choke? That alone could be causing your problems.

Do you have a fuel lock off valve or something to cut fuel to your Edelbrock? Just want to make sure you're not running gasoline and lpg at the same time.

Did you buy your kit new or used? Just trying to help narrow down any issues. Does your mixer have a silicone diaphragm or rubber one?

i have the mixer on top off the carb because i cant run the engine on lpg when the thermostat is still closed, with a cold start the vaporizer freezes within 3 minutes. during the cold seasons i always start the car on gas and i have to say the carb works well. i use an external electric fuel pump from a classic range rover (found it somewhere in the garage and tought: FREE FUEL PUMP!) it delivers about 2.5 psi but thats just enough to drive it on normal speeds and rev her up in front of my high school.
i also have a switch to go from gas to lpg. i can switch bitween gas and lpg with the engine running. but i do have to drain the carb before i put the lpg system on.
normal_tkd_en_buick_lpg_085.JPG

and FYI it is a brand new system
 
What sort of gas mileage do you get running on gasoline at normal speeds with that fuel pump? Have you measured it?

I'm running out of ideas as to why your car is running so poor. The obvious idea is that you need to tune your system more. You already said this isn't possible.

The only other thought I have is that your engine isn't as modified as you think, and it's not really 425 horsepower. Did you run your engine before installing the lpg system on gasoline, with normal fuel pump? What sort of power and 0-60 times were you seeing then?
 
2.5psi doesnt mean anything. You need to know the volumetric flow rate in gallons per hour, or litres per minute, or some volume over time.

A stock ac delco fuel pump on most gm 350s flow 40ish gph, at 3.5psi. These can support stock to mild performance. Over 350hp NA is (imo) a wild combination.


Sorry if you already mentioned, but what is you timing set at? Initial, mechanical, total and vacuum?
 
HurstOlds said:
What sort of gas mileage do you get running on gasoline at normal speeds with that fuel pump? Have you measured it?

I'm running out of ideas as to why your car is running so poor. The obvious idea is that you need to tune your system more. You already said this isn't possible.

The only other thought I have is that your engine isn't as modified as you think, and it's not really 425 horsepower. Did you run your engine before installing the lpg system on gasoline, with normal fuel pump? What sort of power and 0-60 times were you seeing then?

well i cant prove how many hp i have, but an engine with similar specs is the edelbrock performer rpm with 410 hp, however the e-tec has 430 hp with cnc'd heads
and i ported and polished my heads and they have about 190 cc intakes, 2.02 valves and 1:6 rockers
i also have an electric water pump wich gives less drag at high rpm.
and if that wont give 400+ hp i'm gonna ad teflon to the oil wich would reduce friction further.
but the lpg system wont provide more than 325 hp on any stock big block. a low friction sb would give a little more
i havent tested the engine with gas jet but i know that the engine stalls or backfires when i go WOT.
if i wanna test my mpg on gas i will cry during the trip since gas is sooooo expensive in the netherlands
 
online170 said:
2.5psi doesnt mean anything. You need to know the volumetric flow rate in gallons per hour, or litres per minute, or some volume over time.

A stock ac delco fuel pump on most gm 350s flow 40ish gph, at 3.5psi. These can support stock to mild performance. Over 350hp NA is (imo) a wild combination.


Sorry if you already mentioned, but what is you timing set at? Initial, mechanical, total and vacuum?
i dont know, my dat set the timing 8 months ago and it improved radically.
when i we drove the car for the first time 2 years ago we did a 0-60 test we did 10 sec.
8 months ago we replaced the centrifugal spring in the msd pro-billet with medium springs and set the timing better.
again we tested the 0-60 and we reach 60 within 7 sec. throttle response was improved aswell.
but now i'm back to 9,4 seconds. i replaced the broken valve spings with heavy duty dual springs to match the cam. 5 months ago. and to be honest, how do you guys measure the vacuum? i've never heard about it and how could you change it?
 
Sounds like your timing is dialed in correctly. Generally, advancing it will give you more low end power and better fuel economy.

One thing I would suggest, is to take off your distributor cap, and make sure the weights move freely. Its common for them to get "sticky" because they are corroding. I had this happen and my car felt more and more sluggish. I took off the weights, wire wheeled them, polished with 400 and then 800 sand paper. Cleaned/wiped off with WD40, and put the tiniest amount of general purpsose lithium grease I could on there. Like you take a tiny dab on the tip of your finger, and just spread it on the weights. Your finger should just glide across the weight, and then get stuck because you ran out of grease, and the take anothe tiny dab and go again. VERY VERY Little grease! Enough to keep it slippery, but not so much that it will spray around on the distributor.

The power came back, because the advance was operating correctly.



To check timing, just point the gun at the timing mark, and read what youre getting. If your harmonic balancer doesnt have timing marks all around the distributor, you will need to mark the balancer or have a dial back timing light.
1) DISCONNECT THE VACUUM ADVANCE!, and plug it on the carb.
2) Check TOTAL ----> Rev the engine to 3000rpm++. I generally go to 4000 or 5000, so I know 100% I am past the total curve. And read the output. Should be around 34ish degrees, depending on what your engine likes.
3) Check Initial -----> Just point the timing light at idle and check. Becareful, if your engine idles high, it may already be into the mechanical advance. Factory told you to check it at a certain RPM. Usually 750rpm or so.
4) Mechanical -----> Difference between Total and Initial. Was about 12-14* on a stock distributor. If you know the PN of the distributor, MSD should be able to tell you.
5) Vacuum, I usually rev the engine up to get close to total timing, and also high vacuum, note the timing (lets say 34*), then plug in the vacuum hose, and see how it changes (lets say 42*). Then you know your vacuum advance is 8*. You can get an adjustable canister as well. When you check the timing with no vacuum, make sure to pinch or plug the hose some how so you dont have a vac leak.

Vacuum advance is necessary if you care about MPG. Most guys usually leave it out, because its kind of an erratic system.
 
i dont have vacuum advance!
wow this might explain my mpg a little bit. the probillet doesnt have vacuum. but i have the programmable 6-al. wich i cant program because the cable connector does'nt fit in my laptop (it's a 10 pin videoconnector from the 90's)
and the corroded weights is a good theory u got there. the probillet does corrode a lot inside...
 
Ah that would explain the MPG.

BUT it does not explain the power loss. It should still run like a bat outta hell with no vacuum advance. Check your weights and see what you find. Maybe they are binding.

You can lose ALOT of power if your curve isnt dialed in correctly. Maybe as much as 50 ft-lbs.
 
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