80 442 full powertrain swap

[Kelvin's80442]

Correct, they interchange.

Was your assumption about the low voltage reading correct? Would it start after you got home.

Okay thank you.
I haven't tried to start it yet.
It was dusk when we went out and had the lights on, they seem okay. I will test it with a voltmeter today. I hope it's the guage, it's a new alternator. I hooked it up exactly to their drawing

 

[olds307 and 403]

When I swapped the 2.56 to 3.42 gears in my 88 when it had the 403, I smelled a burning smell, it was the rear tires! It makes a big difference, it made 1/2 a second in the 1/8 mile.

 

[Kelvin's80442]

Since I am changing the A arms to tubular, center link, tie rods and idler arm, what am I up against? This will throw my alignment out. I will measure old to have it close. I am assuming will need alignment shims as well

 

[Kelvin's80442]

When I swapped the 2.56 to 3.42 gears in my 88 when it had the 403, I smelled a burning smell, it was the rear tires! It makes a big difference, it made 1/2 a second in the 1/8 mile.

Nice!!!
I wasn't attempting to burn the tires, brand new. Lol

I am thinking with the 342 posi, this thing will launch, it's half stupid right now, the needle drops quick

 

[Kelvin's80442]

What's the opinions on these?

Rear Upper Control Arms - Tubular with Del-Sphere Pivot Joints - Adjustable - 1978-1987 GM G-Body: Regal, Malibu, Monte Carlo, etc.

G-Body Rear Upper Control Arms | Regal Rear Upper Control Arms - 1978-1987 G-Body Regal, Malibu, etc. Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms with Del-Sphere

www.spohn.net

 

[pagrunt]

I went with a UMI set that has roto joints but not adjustable. Haven't hit the road yet.

 

[Kelvin's80442]

I went with a UMI set that has roto joints but not adjustable. Haven't hit the road yet.

Okay, looks like a very decent piece too.

 

[64nailhead]

The UMI stuff works - all of it!

If you get their rear
Lowers, then get the rear sway bay as well. That thing is a beast.

Regarding the front end and rear end parts changing, you get all of it done and then get an all wheel alignment. You won’t get it close enough to not chew up tires. And you might get it far enough off to make it drive awful.

Before you get aligned, check with whomever is doing it to make sure they know what to do to make it handle. The factory specs are not the best for handling.

 

[scoti]

The UMI stuff works - all of it!

If you get their rear
Lowers, then get the rear sway bay as well. That thing is a beast.

Regarding the front end and rear end parts changing, you get all of it done and then get an all wheel alignment. You won’t get it close enough to not chew up tires. And you might get it far enough off to make it drive awful.

Before you get aligned, check with whomever is doing it to make sure they know what to do to make it handle. The factory specs are not the best for handling.

Agreed. Do your research on the places & pic one that understands the factory specs are just that.... specs.
Getting more out of your set-up means not using factory specs.

You'll want around .5 Negative Camber w/as much Positive Caster as they can dial in while keeping you @ that .5 Neg Camber spec. Maybe 1/16 total Toe-in. You don't want it Pigeon toe'd in but also don't want it excessively out. I'll usually go w/factory Toe settings & make changes if I don't like the feel.

 

[Kelvin's80442]

Okay thanks guys, I will call the shop that built my motor, they would know or who to ask. They build for guys who race in Gimli, I assume they know the go to.