I bought a factory crank for $170 that has the same stamping on it as the oem crank that I took out. I do however have a question. I have got then engine mostly together and its very hard to turn over by hand. I don't know if that's normal or what. I see these engines have rope seals. Is this why. Or is it binding? When I loosen up the main cap the one that has the rear main seal in it it becomes easy to turn over. Easy like other engines I have worked on in the past.
84 T-Type Questions, and Rebuild...
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what casting is on the crank 229? Do yourself a favor & get rid of the rope seal & use the felpro.The Beabers said:
What did you torque the main caps to?
Post a pic of the crank you pulled out main & rod journals.
dogshit said:LOL Went to a buddys lil country auto shop with my GN once and so my friend and some onlookers had to see under the hood. Their checking it out talking bs car stories about somebodys GN race car being so bad etc. Up pulls a young guy apitimy of a red neck in his Regal with his "built" 3 fitty five. I am a country boy so red neck is not necessarily a negative term. But this guy was of the type that did not finish skool etc but knows it all. No lie he looks listens a bit then spits his tobacco and says I should build up a nice 355 like he did and pull that 6 banger out cause there a waste of time. Honestly he didn't know the first thing about them. Well for that matter I don't think he knew that you could make power with anything other than the best motor ever.. ehh that would be a gen 1 sbc.
The other guys tried to talk to him but I saw his eyes gloss over quick and knew it was like reasoning with a drunk. Finally I said look I never claimed this thing to be all that its pretty much stock with only the wick turned up a bit but its still probably faster than your car. He about chocked on his tobacco and said how much you want to bet. Nothing but if you want to run em down the back road a time or two I think it will surprise you and you will have to admit they run pretty good. He thought I was stu pud! Couldn't believe I was such a dumbass. So I don't know what he got other than some 295/50/15s on old school cragers that stuck out from the body some pipes & obviously a cam. I'm thinking maybe he got some spray I never even asked or looked under his hood. I just figured take no chances run my car for what its got and at minimum it won't embarrass me. I spooled up as he did a three count and bang I left him so hard he must of felt like an idiot and he turned off on the fist cross road and never made it back to the shop. My friend said later he said I must have sprayed it.
Sprayed it with boost LOL Great story.
The crank casting is 229 on both cranks new and the one I pulled out. My bearing clearance is .002 and as for the pictures I'm at work so I will have to do that later. I'm going to keep the seal that I have in there now. I didn't know they made a different one until after I already had it in. I just want to be sure the thing runs before I put any more money into it I'm already at $4,900 and have a bad feeling I'm going to need other stuff to make it run. But to my understanding .002 is an accepted bearing clearance. So I'm going to continue the build. I'll post those pics tonight. Thanks
A double roller timing chain with a tensioner will shread the tensioner material. It will look like some on took & sand blasted the inside of your engine. I have seen this a few times.
On the rear main seal I think it is $11.00 for the Fel pro unit. Do yourself a favor & just change it out unless your just flipping the car. It is easy to do now.
On the rear main seal I think it is $11.00 for the Fel pro unit. Do yourself a favor & just change it out unless your just flipping the car. It is easy to do now.
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