87Cut1a55 not a good seller

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silverfox said:
... ball joints, shocks, idler and center link so not sure if i need al of it but it was alll in a package so thought i would get it and replace it all. unless someone here has new balljoints and tie rods then I will prob just go to the local NAPA, i appricate the offers. ...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1978-88-A ... 35242.html
 
drogg1 said:
silverfox said:
... ball joints, shocks, idler and center link so not sure if i need al of it but it was alll in a package so thought i would get it and replace it all. unless someone here has new balljoints and tie rods then I will prob just go to the local NAPA, i appricate the offers. ...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1978-88-A ... 35242.html

Thank you for the link and help

Has anyone ever used parts from speedway motors? Are the parts quality?
 
I have used all kinds of products from speedway, that being said when it comes to suspension parts I wouldn't use them. Most all of the steering parts (ie. tie rods ball joints) are just re-labeled cheap junk. Its the same as the "white box" stuff you can buy at any Advance Auto, or Autozone. I've always had way better luck with quality parts such as Moog as far as longevity and fit. We tried using there upper control arms on circle track cars and the pivot shaft bushings are junk, not to say a street car is as abusive as a race car but they still bounce up and down. I installed a complete G-Body front and rear suspension kit from Hotchkis on a couple of these cars when I still worked in the garage, and that stuff is VERY nice. A buddy of mine has there whole set-up that is probably over five years old on a daily driver with no problems, however the price of Hotchkis products also reflects the quality. I am a strong believer you get what you pay for.
 
Thats exactly what i was feeling and thinking about their products. I have Bell tech springs and spindles already and got a set of the G-Body parts drilled and slotted rotors from another member here. I am thinking about ordering the G-Body parts upper control arms with ball joints price looks good and reviews are good. I will then need to get the lower Ball Joints and tie rods then I should be pretty good to go. I lost the garage space i was going to use to do this work so i am going to have to work on it in the parking lot at my townhouse Fun... Thanks for the information
 
That sucks , if a man doesn't have his word then he has nothing . Karma will catch up to him sorry about your bad luck guys .
 
silverfox said:
Thats exactly what i was feeling and thinking about their products. I have Bell tech springs and spindles already and got a set of the G-Body parts drilled and slotted rotors from another member here. I am thinking about ordering the G-Body parts upper control arms with ball joints price looks good and reviews are good. I will then need to get the lower Ball Joints and tie rods then I should be pretty good to go. I lost the garage space i was going to use to do this work so i am going to have to work on it in the parking lot at my townhouse Fun... Thanks for the information

UB machine has the uppers for about $50 each and when you mount them the shaft has two ways of mounting giving you more camber if you need it. They need to be greased regularly and it makes it easier if you put on 90º grease fittings facing up to grease them, especially on the back side
 
pontiacgp said:
UB machine has the uppers for about $50 each and when you mount them the shaft has two ways of mounting giving you more camber if you need it. They need to be greased regularly and it makes it easier if you put on 90º grease fittings facing up to grease them, especially on the back side



The Ub Machine is a nice control arm, however I would advise against using a racing style upper control arm on a street car. These control arms are meant to be used with a very short spring, stock spindle, tall upper ball joint. and short lower ball joint to achieve the very low ride height race cars use. This maintains the up-hill attitude at the pivot point that a upper control arm has to have to not have excessive camber gain and loss during use. If you look at the Hotchkis upper control arms they keep the ball joint pad below the pivot of the arm's shaft, so with stock ball joints, a stock or even a lowering spindle the uphill attitude of the pivot is still maintained. Camber gain and loss can make for a very unstable street car, some people may never notice it on a mild daily driver, but I would say they would notice it if they got the camber gain corrected then drove the car again. Using racing type parts is fine you just have to remember we spend hours getting the front end correct for the parts we use, and ride heights on a race car are nearly unachievable on a street car. This is why companies like Hotchkis spend the time to make street car performance control arms, as well as other companies

http://ubmachine.com/Products/14-0809-5R.jpg

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files ... mo_pic.jpg
 
I've use the UB machine on my street car for 4 years and they come in different lengths to fit your needs. They are also used on the street stock cars we raced and they take a beating. The only problem I have had with them on a street car is they nylon bushing that they use doesn't last long if not kept lubricated. I will be changing the uppers to a equal length arm so I can use uppers with roller bearings that we use on our late model and sportsman so that means a change on the frame pick up points, something we could not do on super stocks... 🙂
 
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