98~05 Blazer brake upgrade! DONE!

MTP-Madmat

Apprentice
Feb 27, 2018
81
157
33
I’m sure it’s been covered but do the blazer spindles put the center of the hub in the stock location height wise and wheel mounting face to the frame? I want bigger brakes for autocross but I already run 315/35-17 on 17x11 3.7BS all around. Want to know if they will fit. Also dropped 2” with spindles in front currently
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
113
I’m sure it’s been covered but do the blazer spindles put the center of the hub in the stock location height wise and wheel mounting face to the frame? I want bigger brakes for autocross but I already run 315/35-17 on 17x11 3.7BS all around. Want to know if they will fit. Also dropped 2” with spindles in front currently
Height is the same (unless you get drop spindles), HOWEVER, the front track width increases by about 3/8" on each side.
 
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UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
3,048
3,264
113
Southlake, TX
I’m sure it’s been covered but do the blazer spindles put the center of the hub in the stock location height wise and wheel mounting face to the frame? I want bigger brakes for autocross but I already run 315/35-17 on 17x11 3.7BS all around. Want to know if they will fit. Also dropped 2” with spindles in front currently

Are your fenders radiused / cut?

Those numbers don't add up unless you cut away sheet metal with a sawsall.
 
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MTP-Madmat

Apprentice
Feb 27, 2018
81
157
33
Are your fenders radiused / cut?

Those numbers don't add up unless you cut away sheet metal with a sawsall.

There is some sheet metal missing. Had to use a grinder. I’m going to put some bolt on flares for now then build a custom wide body kit later
 

307 Regal

Royal Smart Person
Oct 21, 2009
1,667
915
113
Northern Indiana
I did this brake and spindle upgrade also. Front tires don’t spin freely when jacked up any ideas on what it could be.

Also make sure your dust shields aren't touching your brake rotors.
 
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Geezy24

Apprentice
Nov 18, 2017
60
147
33
Tall upper ball joint will probably help the bumpsteer more than a bumpsteer kit, by reducing the reverse camber curve during the wheel travel.

What springs do you have in front? there is lots of improvement going to stiffer springs over stock '87 GN springs. Something like a moog 5662 that is cut to get the static ride height back to this.

I have no idea what springs are on the car, they were already on the car when I bought it 2001 car has been sitting in a garage since then.
Shocks are bilsteins
Lower control arms are DJM 3” drop
I installed all new front bushings, bumpstops etc.
Kirban steering shaft
And now the upper Spohn control arms and bumpsteer kit just got installed
Dropped off at alignment shop today so we will see.
Thanks for the explanations.




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Geezy24

Apprentice
Nov 18, 2017
60
147
33
Looks slick! Very nice.
Great news for your tall upper BJ concerns: They won't affect ride height!
Here's how I tend to breakdown understanding ride height:
I like to think that the springs and lower a-arm spring seats make up a sort of "pre-wheel ride height" or "spring oriented ride height."
And on the other hand, things like drop/raised spindles and extended ball joints make up what I like to call "wheel oriented ride height."

With spring oriented ride height, what you're really doing is bringing the frame of the car closer to the lower a-arm. Since your lower a-arm's lower ball joint can't get any closer to the ground during normal driving, you can almost think of the lower a-arm like the ground itself. Rock bottom! Your springs (and therefore the rest of the car) are basically standing on them. Using lowering springs is sort of like bending your knees to lower yourself.

Wheel oriented ride height is where ball joints, spindles, and even wheel dimensions come in to play. It's a lot less like bending your knees and a lot more like taking a step down on a ladder! Now let's think of the lower A-arm like your foot, the upper A-arm like your arm, and the wheel & spindle like a ladder. Your ball joints are just like rungs on the ladder. Adding an extended lower ball joint to your spindle is like stepping down to a lower rung on a ladder. You're lowering your entire body. We'll stay with this ladder analogy to talk about the different combinations of parts:

-Stock parts are like you standing halfway up a ladder. Use that height as a starting point when you imagine each scenario.

-Drop spindles are like you moving both your hands and feet an equal number of rungs down a ladder. You're your same old self once you get there, but you're just closer to the ground.

-Tall upper ball joints alone are like moving your hands up to the next rung without moving your feet anywhere. Your body isn't getting any lower so you don't have to worry about getting closer to the ground. But your arms are getting higher so you just have to make sure there's nothing getting in their way. Reach as high as you want and stop where it's most comfortable. Parts wise, we've effectively added height to the spindle.

-Tall lower ball joints by themselves are like taking a step down to the next lowest rung on a ladder without moving your hands from the rung they started on. Your feet and the rest of your body are not only lower, but your arms are now slightly raised in relation to your body as well. This means that taller lower ball joints both lower the car AND raise the upper A-arms in relation to the rest of the chassis. Again, we've effectively added height to the spindle, hence the upper A-arm movement, but this time the so-called spindle height was added below the center axis of the wheel so the whole car moved down too.

-Lastly, both taller upper and lower ball joints together are like moving your arms up one rung and your feet down one rung. There's a total increase of two rungs worth of distance between your hands and feet. But, you're still only one rung closer to the ground because it's your feet that dictate your total distance from the ground and not your hands.

I also made a sketch because I just like explaining these things as best as I can.
View attachment 91585

Thank you for the explanation, I am a visual person and that diagram help me understand.


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GPNX

Apprentice
Jun 6, 2016
98
43
28
If nothing is rubbing, drive it, bed the pad in they check again. If you hear chirping when driving look for metal to metal contact, from the caliper bracket, the shim clips, the dust shields, etc. The pads can have high spots that will go away when they are bedded in. Check them again after 25 miles.
I will try driving it around more after I get new rims. Nothing is rubbing. Wheel bearings aren’t making any noises.
 

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