A-body rear end?

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motorholmes

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Oct 1, 2007
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OK I've done my due diligence and searched this topic for about 45 min. I came up with this comment on replacing the 7.5 rear end with a 8.5:

by CUTLASSJESSE on Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:39 am
also keep an eye out for a-body 8.5 rears there only just a tiny bit wider but are almost a direct bolt in and can normally pick them up for around 100 bucks

Which A-body cars are we talkin? What about the full size wagons from around 1995 or so? I think they had a 4-link and I know where I can get one cheap..
:?:
 
I think they were talking about the A body rear from 1968 to 1972. I know you have to change to ajustable uppers. Someone chime in and help fill in the rest. :lol:
 
well the a body rears are 73-77 you need to look for a cutlass those years as they have no c clips if really interestd pm me i can give full details on this swap
 
A body rear from 66-72 either 10 or 12 bolt rears will bolt in with minor modifications. Stay away from the olds rears of those years though. The olds "12 bolt" rear is actually a 10 bolt rear and not as strong. You can find one from a chevelle, pontiac, el camino and the 70-72 MOnte carlos. I have a '69 12 bolt inmy car and PontiacGP went with a 10 bolt in his.
 
The 66-72 will require a special upper control arm as the angle of the upper ears are different (the control arms can usually be fount on E Bay). Around here the 10 bolt versions go in the $100-200 range and the 12 Bolt are $400-600.
 
So what modifications/replacement parts are needed other than the upper control arms? Can someone just post how to do the entire swap?
 
So I'm assuming it's a "NO" on the 1990's full size wagon rear end?

Either way I think it would be necessary for my build if I'm aiming for more than 400 lb ft of torque. Of course, breaking stuff is always kinda fun if you're not too far from home 😀

Oh yeah, can you guys also comment on wheel fitment/backspacing? Or is there not enough difference with the A body rear end. Thanks
 
85montemj said:
So what modifications/replacement parts are needed other than the upper control arms? Can someone just post how to do the entire swap?

it's no different than swapping a 7.5 rear. You can use the stock uppers but they are too long so they change your pinion angle. I got the conversion adjustable uppers cause they get rid of the binding that's common with stock uppers and I could adjust my pinion angle. The only other item you'll probaly need is a conversion u-joint. The OEM inside clip style if a G3 and the A body rear end is most likely a 1310 if it's a 10 bolt
 
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