Alternator Upgrade

[SuperRegal]

I was wondering if any body knew were i could get a bigger alternator from. Im going to be upgrading my interior speakers soon and getting some hid lights so i figured i might as well get a bigger alternator to help with all that. I currently have a system in my car and the lights do dim when the bass hits really hard.And the guy that installed it for me said the amp was probably going to need more juice to give out rated power. So anyone where i may beable to get one? I have an 85 regal with an n/a 3.8 v6

 

[rdakins]

I was wondering if any body knew were i could get a bigger alternator from. Im going to be upgrading my interior speakers soon and getting some hid lights so i figured i might as well get a bigger alternator to help with all that. I currently have a system in my car and the lights do dim when the bass hits really hard.And the guy that installed it for me said the amp was probably going to need more juice to give out rated power. So anyone where i may beable to get one? I have an 85 regal with an n/a 3.8 v6

Mechman, excessive amperage, also heard a lot of good things about motor city reman. What ever you do don't buy ebay alts trust me!

 

[darbysan]

Here is a thread for upgrading to a 140 amp alternator.
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/u ... ber=493219

Don't know if your model has the wide ( serp style) belt on the alternator. Might require a different pulley ( or a pulley swap).

 

[SuperRegal]

Will an 140 amp alternator be enough though? My current amp probably isn't putting out full power since it requires 14.4 volts to do rated power and i doubt it is.

 

[darbysan]

Will an 140 amp alternator be enough though? My current amp probably isn't putting out full power since it requires 14.4 volts to do rated power and i doubt it is.

Only you will know how much extra stuff you have on there, and how much it is pulling. I haven't seen anything bigger than 140 in a stock amp ( but there may be something?). Your original alternator may be a 68 amp, or a 95 amp ( high output in those days). You can go to your local Autozone and they can test your current Alternator on the car to tell you what you are putting out now.

You may be getting into the range where you will need an extra battery, large caps, etc. I'm just not that familiar with big sound systems and their draws.

 

[jlcustomz]

You gave no specifics as to what amp you just added, but an alternator alone probably won't stop blinking of headlights when bass hits. You should also consider a capacitor of at least 3 farads rating. Many people even use a 2nd battery near the amp as a capacitor.

Powermaster is a common aftermarket company that sells upgraded alternators. Cheaply remanufactured alternators generally still have a low output at idle speeds.

 

[SuperRegal]

tWell basically my current system consists of an Re Audio Hc12 powered by a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 wired at 4 ohms with American Bass 0 gauge wire. The amp is capable of putting out rated power of 1200 watts rms at 2 or 4 ohms, but is bench marked of putting out 1400 watts rms at 14.4v. My buick has an 80 amp alternator. I am most likely going to have to run a second battery in the trunk.

 

[Oldstech]

Being my Cutlass is a diesel I have 2 batteries (2 Duralast GoId 1000CCA) relocated to the trunk. I upgraded to a CS144 alternator. I grabbed one out the junkyard out a GM Minivan. Changed the pulley to the V-belt style. I wired it wrong according the the Alternator shop, which is where I took the CS144 after it lasted one week. Altho all the websites says the Sense wire can be hot all the time. They said not too. And I believe them, because I didn't changed my wiring set-up after they fixed the CS144 and this time it lasted a month. Took it back to them. For some reason they keep their word on the warranty (Altho I was ready to pay). I changed the wiring to where the sense wire was hot only with the key on. 2 years later no problems.

On with the main topic. My Sound system was 2 10" Alpine Type Rs wired to 2 ohms. Using a 1800watts (Cant remember the brand, Im currently overseas so I havn't seen the car in a while) But the RMS was around 600watts per speaker. It was stupid loud. I downgraded to 1 10" and it is still too loud but now I have more room for other crap in the trunk. I loaded tested the Alternator once. With the System turned high, glow plugs on, Bright Headlights on, Heater on Max, Flashers On. I got the Alternator to pull around 110 amps.

On the street I never had any problem with dimming headlights or nothing. Highly recommended

Edit: After going to my Cardomain profile to look up what amp I have, it is a Visionik 1800 watt Amp wire down to 2 ohms about 500 watts per speaker. I guessamate 500watt, being they overrate the amps from the factory (being a cheaper brand). So I think 500 watts is fair. Eitherway its too most bass for me. I guess, Im going old. I was kewl for about the first month.

 

[SuperRegal]

So im guessing get a CS144 alternator, big 3, upgrade my main battery and get a second one in the trunk? Does anyone know any good audio shops in dallas Tx? I ha d a friend hook everything up but he says my amp isn't pushing all 1200 watts, so i guess it has something to do with my electrical. Ive heard that Bonnie and Clyde Audio do good work but is pricey.

 

[Bar50]

I was going to say a CS130 off of an '88 Caprice with a 5.0 (305). I swapped one onto my Malibu grudge racer works awesome, 105 amps, 65 or so at idle speed. $90 from the parts store with a warranty.