any one know what part this is?
- Thread starter Bweavy
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83hurstguy has it right. The preload on them is a catch 22. You obviously want it to be tight against the bumper to prevent sliding around, but like he said, it puts pressure on the upper bolts and after the years, the plastic gets brittle and pop goes the bolt hole ends. I have used black plastic "spacers" in the past to help alleviate the pressure on the bracket with good results. I got plenty of the brackets on hand to last me the rest of my life, but it would be nice if someone actually made aftermarket stuff BETTER than originals where feasibly, financially, and reasonably possible. If you can't, you can't. But this is one part I'd tweak the design a bit.
Anyone that's had an Olds G47 bodystyle and had one just break for no reason knows exactly what the problems are. If you haven't had a broken one in your life, then consider yourself a lucky soul. But there's usually a darn good reason people are asking for replacements.
Anyone that's had an Olds G47 bodystyle and had one just break for no reason knows exactly what the problems are. If you haven't had a broken one in your life, then consider yourself a lucky soul. But there's usually a darn good reason people are asking for replacements.
69hurstolds said:
The problem is the plastic was made back in 1980 for the 81's. Most of you have an idea how much Plastic technology has came in 33 years. Your kind of damn if you do & damn if you don't on restoration pieces. You make it better then you get a well it isn't 100% correct. It has some of the exact flaws for alignment. But the plastic will have a lot better UV protection.
I kind of Like PontiacGP's answer: I usually cause the plastic to crack when I over torque the bolts... 🙁
It's not about overtorquing bolts or 80s plastics. I got original 80s plastic parts all over my cars and not all have given up the ghost yet. The original flaw is all in the design.
Don't get the idea I'm knocking the new bracket. I'm not. It looks great and probably will work just fine. It's just that if it fits exactly like the old one, it too, will give up the backside of the top mounts- eventually. Due to the pressure loading on the bolt holes. I asked a simple question and I got my answer. Y'all get a bit too defensive sometimes.
Restoration parts that hide the improvements but still appear to be original looking are the way to go if feasible. And I understand the decisions made at the time that it wasn't worth it to tweak the design. OK, fine. Anyway, like the originals, time will tell. At least they're available again. But I'd suggest buying a spare for a few years down the road.
Don't get the idea I'm knocking the new bracket. I'm not. It looks great and probably will work just fine. It's just that if it fits exactly like the old one, it too, will give up the backside of the top mounts- eventually. Due to the pressure loading on the bolt holes. I asked a simple question and I got my answer. Y'all get a bit too defensive sometimes.
Restoration parts that hide the improvements but still appear to be original looking are the way to go if feasible. And I understand the decisions made at the time that it wasn't worth it to tweak the design. OK, fine. Anyway, like the originals, time will tell. At least they're available again. But I'd suggest buying a spare for a few years down the road.
69hurstolds said:
I'll speak to Toby on this may be we can get a metal washer installed inside the top mounting plastic but concealed by the plastic. The problem is this is not a $20.00-30.00 item. We have more then that in it already. We want to keep this available to every one reasonably priced. Having them change the mold & make the bottom mounts a 1/4" back would help in my opinion as well. This would be expensive & take some time as well but I think that would really help as well.
But where do you draw the line from cost to improvements?
The problem with typing is some emotion is lost. Don't be defensive it was a comment saying some times we can't win. We change too much it doesn't look original or increases cost.
Like I said we can discuss & see if there is an easy improvement alternative with out breaking the bank.
I say the tool gets paid off and we offer it cheaper in a couple years. If you bust one, oh well....another 35-40$.... If we go changing too many things its not going to line up like this. Me personally I would rather have it line up perfectly like this and pay 70, than pay the same and it not gap correctly around the facebar. You change one thing, and it will alter the fitment somewhere else. I have 1/2 dozen of these in the basement, and yes usually the post is the first to break, but also I observe it getting bashed into something as well.
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I think in this instance there MAY not be an alternative. The item isn't a bank breaker, so I think it may be ok in the long run. I don't think there's a whole lot one can do with the way the upper holed mount anyway. I probably wouldn't chase alternative engineering on this part as the ROI probably isn't worth it.
It's a good looking part, and true, there'll be a lot of them lost to poles and other car bumpers and whatever else people run into...
I forsee a lot of these being sold. 😀
It's a good looking part, and true, there'll be a lot of them lost to poles and other car bumpers and whatever else people run into...
I forsee a lot of these being sold. 😀
what about installing it with these types of rivets...it will allow the holder move a little if one of the problems is the different rates of expansion and contraction of plastic and metal. We use them in racing when body panels get torn off and the rivet hole is opened up
Sorry but that would not be NOS original correct & your not a GM engineer. There you go thinking way too far outside the box. LOL Allowing expansion & contraction? What are you thinking 😉pontiacgp said:what about installing it with these types of rivets...it will allow the holder move a little if one of the problems is the different rates of expansion and contraction of plastic and metal. We use them in racing when body panels get torn off and the rivet hole is opened up
GM adhered to tight quality tolerances.
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