Any painters on here?
- Thread starter Rt Jam
- Start date
- Status
If your talking about painting just the backside, I'd just use black epoxy primer unless it's gonna see significant sunlight. It'll turn chalky over time in the light( use a single stage black topcoat if your worried about that). Spi dries flat and is pretty durable, its like glue almost.
Epoxy Primer | SPI
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
Or buy a bunch of rustoleum and bomb it. Depends on the car I guess.
Have you ever used Bulldog in a spray can ? Ive tried 3 different cans and it always sprays out like crap. Big droplets. It doesnt atomize well at all. I finally bought a gallon and use a detail gun.If your talking about painting just the backside, I'd just use black epoxy primer unless it's gonna see significant sunlight. It'll turn chalky over time in the light( use a single stage black topcoat if your worried about that). Spi dries flat and is pretty durable, its like glue almost.
Epoxy Primer | SPI
Or buy a bunch of rustoleum and bomb it. Depends on the car I guess.
No, Thanks.I should have looked closer at the link. I bought a quart to use on my ss bumper cover. I was told to mix it with base(1:4) and clear(1:3) after applying it on the plastic as adhesion promoter, but the Regal bumper is much stiffer so that step probably isn't needed.It's good to know about the rattle can bulldog. Kind of like the rattle can 2k epoxy primer I tried.
If you’d like to use a spray can, your best bet would be to have an auto paint supplier fill one for you in base coat. Then use a 2k aerosol clear coat. Spray max has a nice spraying one. I’m not too sure how flexible it is once it’s dry though.
You could probably get away with some spray max adhesion promoter, some filled spray cans, and 2k aerosol clear. As long as it’s not too cold, you should be flexible enough to get the fillers on the car. The majority of body shops aren’t using flex additives in their materials anymore anyway.
You could probably get away with some spray max adhesion promoter, some filled spray cans, and 2k aerosol clear. As long as it’s not too cold, you should be flexible enough to get the fillers on the car. The majority of body shops aren’t using flex additives in their materials anymore anyway.
The issue with 1k is if he wants to paint the piece for real down the road, it has to come off. Otherwise it will wrinkle.
Last edited:
If you are just covering areas that will not be seen get a paint that is not oil based and verified to be compatible with whatever paint system you plan to use on the rest of the car. I painted a car with paint sold by NAPA. Have a gun and compressor to do it. I did use cans for small parts that would be covered after assembly. The paint I bought was made by the same company and verified to be compatible. Some paint brands will not adhere to each other over time.
I was also able to get the primers in both spray cans and by the can for the spray gun. The cans are far more expensive. What is nice about having the can is that if you have only a few hours to work you can cover the bare metal so it does not get surface rust on it and not have the cleanup time of the gun. Other time a can of primer is nice is when you are sanding a panel and go to metal. Better to hit that one spot and then smooth it out.
The key is that everything you use is compatible. Plan ahead. Do not go cheep on the paint. Think of it as a tool, only use the right tool for the job, anything else is more of a headache.
I used a sheet of metal to test the gun, can etc. prior to each use. I have had cans the do not spray evenly from the store. Also had cans that the nozzle gets clogged up and do not spray right.
If money is an issue spend on the compressor. I have a 33 gal Craftsman that I bought used for cheep off Craigslist. Key is that it has enough air to supply the gun. I used Harbor Freight guns to do primer. I was learning and if I did not clean it correctly or something I could toss it and get another. For the main coat of the car I did get an basic entry level gun and shot the whole car.
Remember to use a respirator when painting a car. They can be had for $30 and are worth it.
All this said for my truck it had a different colored tailgate. It is a work truck and 20 foot vehicle. I just sanded the tailgate to get the paint to adhere well and spray bombed it. Tail gate looks ok and color is close but it is noticeable. Would not do this to a vehicle that was not for utilitarian use.
I was also able to get the primers in both spray cans and by the can for the spray gun. The cans are far more expensive. What is nice about having the can is that if you have only a few hours to work you can cover the bare metal so it does not get surface rust on it and not have the cleanup time of the gun. Other time a can of primer is nice is when you are sanding a panel and go to metal. Better to hit that one spot and then smooth it out.
The key is that everything you use is compatible. Plan ahead. Do not go cheep on the paint. Think of it as a tool, only use the right tool for the job, anything else is more of a headache.
I used a sheet of metal to test the gun, can etc. prior to each use. I have had cans the do not spray evenly from the store. Also had cans that the nozzle gets clogged up and do not spray right.
If money is an issue spend on the compressor. I have a 33 gal Craftsman that I bought used for cheep off Craigslist. Key is that it has enough air to supply the gun. I used Harbor Freight guns to do primer. I was learning and if I did not clean it correctly or something I could toss it and get another. For the main coat of the car I did get an basic entry level gun and shot the whole car.
Remember to use a respirator when painting a car. They can be had for $30 and are worth it.
All this said for my truck it had a different colored tailgate. It is a work truck and 20 foot vehicle. I just sanded the tailgate to get the paint to adhere well and spray bombed it. Tail gate looks ok and color is close but it is noticeable. Would not do this to a vehicle that was not for utilitarian use.
- Status
Similar threads
