That the easiest way to do it is pull the dash completely. Not that it's difficult, it's just incredibly time consuming to replace 3.5" speakers that will still be 3.5" speakers.
Anyone know the specs for factory speakers?
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The problem is the 'depth', depending on the vehicle. My 86' Olds just has no depth and am limited to certain speakers (3 1/2) The driver side has more leeway than passenger where some duct work is in the way, hindering a good fit. Not necessary to pull the dash, just the speaker plates on the dash.
,No its true, The same brand 6X9 will sound better than the same brand 4X10. It will have more bass. Its physics and 30% more cone area. Package trays are for bass, 6X9's make more.[/QUOTE]
*The key aspect is RMS. Total power of a speaker is based upon what level it can reach at certain bursts. RMS is continuous power being sent. In this respect, there are many 200 watt speakers having a RMS of maybe 40. The goal is to match the speakers to the receiver.
A.) If the receiver is dumping 40 watts, one should obtain a speaker with 40 watts (RMS)- "Total power means nothing other than handling high or low frequency at upper levels > 'Fact, no physics here'.
No calculus here, just advanced math.
*The key aspect is RMS. Total power of a speaker is based upon what level it can reach at certain bursts. RMS is continuous power being sent. In this respect, there are many 200 watt speakers having a RMS of maybe 40. The goal is to match the speakers to the receiver.
A.) If the receiver is dumping 40 watts, one should obtain a speaker with 40 watts (RMS)- "Total power means nothing other than handling high or low frequency at upper levels > 'Fact, no physics here'.
No calculus here, just advanced math.
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Ah, that makes sense. We are in the process of swapping the dash with the new (used) one on the floor, so it's a simple task at present.
* My error, I meant parallel when I stated series. I'm pretty certain I specified parallel. There is "no" distortion level from the amp unless I turn up the volume mixer. That is adjustable from the amp. Naturally, if one turns up the level, then one will get some distortion.
*I'll correct my error. Thanks.
Look, chief, I was a professional installer for 8 years. I know my sh*t. Please stop spreading misinformation as you are incorrect on many items.
Speakers and amplifiers do not have to be "matched". There comes a point where the physics of heat come in, but most people won't exceed that. Power doesn't blow speakers; people blow speakers.
All amplifiers have Total Harmonic Distortion. The better the amp= less THD (usually more money).
I'll give you an example of the insanity in car audio: I just bought a cheap set of Alpine coaxial ( not "duaxial") and separates (6x9 and "6.5"- more like 5). The back of this "6.5" mid that has a sticker indicating "280 watts peak power" and "40 watts RMS". Now, thermodynamically speaking, the speaker might hold 280 watts- for a nanosecond. It doesn't mean you need a 40 watt power source. It means that the speaker can nominally handle 40 watts. If you put 75 watts of very clean power to it you'll be fine. Now, if you play it loud for extended periods, it will eventually overheat. Then take a dirty 10 watt (Hi, stock Delco!) Source, and the speaker can be blown instantly from the square waves in the THD. Got it?
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Factory specs for 3 1/2" speakers GM-Delco - "4 watts 20-20,000 (Absolute junk) Paper cone. I have many new if you would like them.
Furthermore, not all G bodies have removable grills; on some, it is easier to pull the dash.
*The key aspect is RMS. Total power of a speaker is based upon what level it can reach at certain bursts. RMS is continuous power being sent. In this respect, there are many 200 watt speakers having a RMS of maybe 40. The goal is to match the speakers to the receiver.
A.) If the receiver is dumping 40 watts, one should obtain a speaker with 40 watts (RMS)- "Total power means nothing other than handling high or low frequency at upper levels > 'Fact, no physics here'.
No calculus here, just advanced math.
I have an Aerospace Engineering degree and professionally installed stereo college summers during the 1980s, So I'm both familiar with "advanced math" and installing speakers in G-bodies.
6X9's with 4X10 adapters will ALWAYS have more bass dollar for dollar than 4X10's. People generally don't put stereo's in cars for "more Treble" or "More Midrange" unless they are old or only listen to talk radio.
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