on a separate note does anyone know the size wire for the distributor connector?
on mines the plastic grips are broken , i think it’s a 10gauge?
on mines the plastic grips are broken , i think it’s a 10gauge?
At a loss......
- Thread starter rubio9800
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Well I just wanna say that ya should b proud of yourself for not giving up. Ya say ya don't know much bout cars, but doing what u are doing, u will learn. Good detective work kid.
Are you talking about the power wire?
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yes that one! thxAre you talking about the power wire?
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Our cars used 12 AWG for distributor wire. '75-'77 A's used the 10 AWG. Biggest wire used outside of the battery cables was 12 AWG in our cars.
Okay, from the pic of the parts, you are running the big cap or big head style HEI Distributor. The small cap version looks somewhat similar to the fist gen distributors that typically came with internally mounted points and a condenser. Vintage or classic country but still very much available and used.
Like I noted earlier, on the topic of the first generation EEE/C's, there are specific threads posted on this forum that deal with them. Typically, they are very limited in terms of what they do and how they do it. They don't data log and have no memory chips that can be scanned or read.
If you are familiar with the coding concept of "if, then, else." then what they do is based on that statement, as in "if the input from the water temperature sensor is (go to sensor, retrieve value, return, read value ...) then do this (add/subtract timing from the distributor to speed up/slow down the rpm rate of the motor; else, do nothing (Or adjust position of accelerator solenoid to slow rpm down)
This is only a rough approximation of how it all works as the sampling rate would be almost continuous until certain preset parameters were met or exceeded and then another "canned" or hard written subroutine would take over. One highly knowledgeable source who regularly visits suggested that the whole process could be easily coded into a modern format and written to a solid state hard drive the size of a deck of smokes. I think that you would have to surf the archives, locate that thread and contact that member directly if you want a better sense of what is being suggested.
When you do finally manage to identify and fix the culprit, it would be useful and beneficial if you posted what you found and how you fixed it to the board. All knowledge and information created or generated is useful, even if it only tells someone what not to do as that shortens the list of stuff to have to sort through. Anything that diminishes frustration and prevents tool throwing.is worthwhile!
Nick
Like I noted earlier, on the topic of the first generation EEE/C's, there are specific threads posted on this forum that deal with them. Typically, they are very limited in terms of what they do and how they do it. They don't data log and have no memory chips that can be scanned or read.
If you are familiar with the coding concept of "if, then, else." then what they do is based on that statement, as in "if the input from the water temperature sensor is (go to sensor, retrieve value, return, read value ...) then do this (add/subtract timing from the distributor to speed up/slow down the rpm rate of the motor; else, do nothing (Or adjust position of accelerator solenoid to slow rpm down)
This is only a rough approximation of how it all works as the sampling rate would be almost continuous until certain preset parameters were met or exceeded and then another "canned" or hard written subroutine would take over. One highly knowledgeable source who regularly visits suggested that the whole process could be easily coded into a modern format and written to a solid state hard drive the size of a deck of smokes. I think that you would have to surf the archives, locate that thread and contact that member directly if you want a better sense of what is being suggested.
When you do finally manage to identify and fix the culprit, it would be useful and beneficial if you posted what you found and how you fixed it to the board. All knowledge and information created or generated is useful, even if it only tells someone what not to do as that shortens the list of stuff to have to sort through. Anything that diminishes frustration and prevents tool throwing.is worthwhile!
Nick
when it dies,will it start right back up? if not, check for power at the distributor,sounds like an ignition switch or fuse link feeding itHello everyone,
I am ripping out my beard trying to figure this out (i'm no mechanic, my first g body)
Apologies for my memoir, here is the situation:
Symptom: Car turns off, could be at idling when first starting up or when accelerating, happens randomly.
High voltage when using a volt meter.
I've done a crap load of things to the car since i got it in Sept 2020, 81 grand prix, 265
Mechanic mentioned it could be the alternator and should have it tested. At that point maybe was thinking bad voltage regulator? So i went to Oreilly's and they ran the test multiple times, everything showed as Passed.
- new battery (optima yellow top)
- Cleaned up ground cables/battery ones too
- new alternator (250amp,internal regulator, added a sound system) (most recent)
- Big 3 done, 0 gauge (most recent)
- new distributor cap
- new rotor
- new ignition control module (most recent)
- new ignition coil
- new fuel filter
- spark plug/wires new
- carburetor rebuild
Didn't have any more ideas so i took it to a shop to get diagnosed. When mechanic measured the voltage going to the distributor it was reaching 15+volts
Car would start and as the voltage climbed it would shut off as it approached 15v, highest i saw was 15.2 when was at the shop, highest he saw was 16v. Mechanic also told me he checked other things such as for vacuum leaks, loose carburetor, checked adjustments on carb.
For fun, i purchased an alternator from them, 70amp stock and see if the behavior would be the same. Issue still occurs, highest reading i seen so far on a dvm has been 14.7v. Couple times as the engine came on, boom abruptly turned off.
The alternator that was in the car when i first purchased it, doesn't work anymore. But now that i think about it i did have these symptoms as well, but also had a carburetor that needed to be rebuilt.
I'm stuck! Could it be the distributor shaft?
Just getting to the shop was a nightmare with the times it would shut off on me. Fear of being rear ended!
I appreciate the time you may have taken to read my drama
Have a great weekend folks!
results would be mixed, most times wouldn’t start up right away.
i may just go ahead and change ignition switch, cheap part.
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