At a loss......

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hello team,

There has been a development

i replaced the ignition coil/rotor/cap and car fired up right away, let it idle and it did not shut off.

i plan to later today take a drive and see how things go.

is it normal for a rotor and cap to look like this? (attatched)

if it’s not normal, then i had bad luck as i had put this one on 2 months ago.

thanks
 

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hello team,

There has been a development

i replaced the ignition coil/rotor/cap and car fired up right away, let it idle and it did not shut off.
i plan to later today take a drive and see how things go.

is it normal for a rotor and cap to look like this? (attatched)

if it’s not normal, then i had bad luck as i had put this one on 2 months ago.

thanks
That is definitely not normal, that metal contact shouldn't be burnt like an overcooked pizza lol.

You might want to find out why it failed after 2 months however. Could be because you purchased a cheap replacement, or perhaps there's electrical problems as well.

94217a78-723d-49a8-ad2e-faceedbed2cf_1.f4952216fa55d493f6026f941a487d37.jpeg
 
You can get a replacement low ohm contact.
will do
That is definitely not normal, that metal contact shouldn't be burnt like an overcooked pizza lol.

You might want to find out why it failed after 2 months however. Could be because you purchased a cheap replacement, or perhaps there's electrical problems as well.

View attachment 170340
maybe defective? i got it at Oreilly
what brand would be considered high quality ?

i got Standard Blue Streak, was that or their own branded stuff Masterpro
 
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will do

maybe defective? i got it at Oreilly
what brand would be considered high quality ?

i got Standard Blue Streak, was that or their own branded stuff Masterpro
Blue Steak should be fine. I will use that or BWD parts (for ignition/electronics).

I would recommend putting some miles on it & re-checking everything. At this point, you still can't be sure you found the problem or if you possibly only found the result of a problem.
 
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Blue Steak should be fine. I will use that or BWD parts (for ignition/electronics).

I would recommend putting some miles on it & re-checking everything. At this point, you still can't be sure you found the problem or if you possibly only found the result of a problem.
ur right!
will try going for a drive tomorrow, see how it runs.

what’s the normal voltage range when engine running? Earlier after the swap no longer was i hitting 15v at the distributor.

i hear when engine is cold voltage may he higher? after that wit lights/accessories on drops a bit. is my understanding correct?

this has been a crash course lol!
 
I've never researched specifics but would be alarmed (concerned) if I saw higher than 14v. Others experiences might offer more insight.
 
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Yes, alternators put out more when cold.
Yes get the MSD brass button and get a quality cap.
Then, you should address why this happened. Do you have the ground strap installed? https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...lnRcBcF04jOtC4z3DC8htayxbYVKqPxBoCq64QAvD_BwE
Again, you might want to get the voltage in check to be safe.
Yes, alternators put out more when cold.
Yes get the MSD brass button and get a quality cap.
Then, you should address why this happened. Do you have the ground strap installed? https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...lnRcBcF04jOtC4z3DC8htayxbYVKqPxBoCq64QAvD_BwE
Again, you might want to get the voltage in check to be safe.
got it!
i ordered the brass button, will have to wait til it arrives at store. Ground strap was on the bad one.

once i install the button i’ll recheck the voltage and share here.

yesterday, just wanted to see if it fired up which it did and let it idle for a few mins.

going to relax today lol
 
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Perhaps you are right regarding a Cutlass. My fusible link experience was from my 77 Trans Am... I may also be confusing the location with the braded ground wire... Memory after 40+ years is not the same as it used to be!
 
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