Autobody and paint tips?

[magoo_oner]

So im going to be fixing all the little door dings and dents on the wagon before I paint and have never done this before and want to give it a try myself I wana do most of the work my uncles guna help me spray it but the more I can complete on my own the better and more satisfied ill be with the end result so if any one can chime in with what products ill need for example bondo or some other filler seeler primer sanding etc

 

[3XBrownCutty]

Make sure the surface is scuffed real good before applying filler so it has something to stick to. Get a set of sanding blocks, a DA sander, and lots of sand paper. Sand bodywork to 220 for primer. Sand the whole car to 400 for paint. USE A RESPIRATOR!

Are you painting single stage or base clear?

 

[magoo_oner]

It will be a base coat clear coat any suggestions on wich filler and do I spray the primer right over the filler or does it need some type of sealer first I also see alot of people using slick sand is that a good product and I forgot to mention I was going to spray a summit racing 2 stage paint

 

[LSCustoms]

go thru this guys channel and pick it apart, alot of great advice... here is the first video about prepping for paint, pretty much applies to what you are doing, if its not a simple scuff and paint... sounds like you are doing body work and not stripping the paint all the way down

[youtube]gBNg5rsYYvI&feature=g-user-u[/youtube]

 

[3XBrownCutty]

I dont think you'll need slick sand, just any 2 part urethane primer will do. Polyester primer is very high build. We just did a corvette at work with slicksand, and we only sanded the filler to 80, and it filled all the scratches. So if you sand to 220 your gold with urethane.

You will need to spray a self etching primer over the bare metal before primer.

Sealer is sprayed before basecoat. You dont absolutely need it. You could wetsand to 600 and base right over your old paint and probably be fine. Or if you want to seal everything, sanding to 320 is fine.

 

[Ribbedroof]

I wouldn't put a 2 stage over the OE lacquer, but that's just me....seen it fail MANY times. Want to do it right, strip it a panel at a time and epoxy prime as you go. You can fill over the epoxy after scuffing, and know that the steel is protected from the outside at least.