Bite the bullet or modify?

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If I'm not mistaken the First Gen Fbodies had a Torque Arm
It's 3rd gen and try not to be so butthurt over the differential size. Glad it's working out for you. I fully support the Ford 9" and it's many advantages, good point on the less rotating mass. Just sharing why I chose the bigger diff for street use. Dual duty was priority for me, not just strength. Choices on differentials is like choosing a model of car. Each has many reasons why it's better or worse in each category.
If you aren't going to bolt drag radials on and hit the track or launch on a trans brake, or do burnout competitions, there is a very low chance you will blow your 7.5" up.

8.8 is a great DIY rear, if you are paying people to weld or cut or assemble, it's better in the long run to drop in a 9" or better yet D60.

A Strange 60 G body is actually cheaper than a 9" ford.

If a 60 is chosen. It may be hard to find since NOBODY makes them anymore. Pre 1969, they had a Power Lock differential. This is the best diff ever made. They have clutches and the cross bar is on a ramp. This diff can easily slip to turn corners but when it sees load, the crossbar rides up the ramp, crushing the clutches for a serious lock on the axles, almost spool like.
..........and they are huge.
 
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Essentially the same process. I really thought that it was a member here doing what I saw, and they had a jig setup, a working prototype, and even spoke of potentially doing it for money.

81cutlass is the one that was doing what you described. It's all in this thread here;
 
I mentioned this on another post i come from a era where 350HP you were hot stuff and 600HP you were sitting on top of the world. now a days a lawn mower does 350HP. i been running a ford 9" in my Gbody for close to 30 years, i originally installed it when i was in high school, my original carrier was the old school trac lok posi with 389 gears from a 350HP chevy 350 to a healthy fuel injected big block today. i just installed the Tru Trac torsion with the same 389 gears. i cant say enough good things about the reliability and strength of this rear for any engine that has a lot torque. Most of all for the price you cant really go wrong. its one of them things you never look back at ever again no mater what you do.
 
My choice for the 9" was because of the design. That Rear Bearing the Pinion sits in is a better design than the 8.8, 8.5, 7.5. They hold together longer. Mine being a manual car over time the others would fall apart. 7.5 wouldn't even make it out of the driveway..🤣
 
81cutlass is the one that was doing what you described. It's all in this thread here;
Ha! I even posted that same link. Guess I should have looked closer and I wouldn't look so stupid. For some reason I thought it was a different thread. Thanks for clearing that up.
 
Ha! I even posted that same link. Guess I should have looked closer and I wouldn't look so stupid. For some reason I thought it was a different thread. Thanks for clearing that up.
No worries! I'm honestly surprised that he never ended up selling those plates, I think that if he made them drilled for a bunch of different patterns they would sell quite quickly.
 
I planned on going with a QP 9" once my 383/TH400 breaks my 7.5 freeway posi. And after reading thru this thread, my mind isn't changed.
Call QP, order rear end, get it, put it in. Done. Everything matches. Seems simple enough to me.
 
I planned on going with a QP 9" once my 383/TH400 breaks my 7.5 freeway posi. And after reading thru this thread, my mind isn't changed.
Call QP, order rear end, get it, put it in. Done. Everything matches. Seems simple enough to me.
The wide variety of gear ratios and ease of maintenance for a divorced center section aren’t bad things either.

I’ve decided to go the 9 Inch route because of this thread, mostly due to its versatility. That and I don’t have a garage, so if I ever frag a center, it’ll be far easier for me to fix.

Hopefully I’ll be able to sell the 8.8s for what I paid for them, but I might hang on to the nicer one for now.
 
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