Bite the bullet or modify?
- Thread starter UC645
- Start date
I’ve got GT discs already on my 8.8, all I’ll need is brackets to swap those over. Although I don’t think I’ve got the parking brake cables adjusted properly, the driver’s side grabs more than the passenger.
i don't bother with any of them GT, the way i do it is with 97 ford explorer buy them brand new these days for around $90 each super easy done the right way no adjusting no nothing. just install and run!
I’ll save the brakes for later, brackets are a cheap enough affair to just swap them over as they are.
I’ve got S10 brakes up front, I’ll think I’ll upgrade those first before I make the rear brakes any bigger. The challenge is finding a brake setup that doesn’t use a mechanical caliper, I much prefer a drum parking brake.
i agree with the drum parking brake that's why the 97 ford explorer is so appealing it has drum parking brakes ! I have the stock blazer front brakes swap done as well with the nine inch in the rear with the explorer setup and this car stops on a dime !
UC645 if you already have the Mustang 8.8, then OMG is that a no brainer to me. Especially if you are sticking with 31 spline axles. To change wheel ends to big Ford and loaded axles is less than $600. Just have to get them welded on and use Exploder brakes from the 90's.
I've got well under $2k in my 8.8 with 35 spline axles, SSM truss kit with a-arms, and that includes buying the puck kit and solid bar to weld in the wheel ends. I did finish mine over 2 years ago, but damn, prices haven't gone up that much. Call Quicks and get a price on exactly what you need.
I've got well under $2k in my 8.8 with 35 spline axles, SSM truss kit with a-arms, and that includes buying the puck kit and solid bar to weld in the wheel ends. I did finish mine over 2 years ago, but damn, prices haven't gone up that much. Call Quicks and get a price on exactly what you need.
I could probably knock about $300 off that 8.8 price I’ve got in the first post, but I’ve got Foxbody axles, not Exploders 🫤
The price reflects a 31 spline upgrade with a Ford Racing Trac-Lok and custom axles from Moser, as well as a gear change.
That and I really don’t trust a 15 year old Hobart welder for sticking on housing ends.
Possibly if I hold on to the nicer rear axle for a spare in the future? That and I have to ask, how much did you brace your 8.8? I know there’s a stigma of them being bent/bending easily depending on power and weight.
The SSM kit is somewhat of a brace. And that is the only brace on mine. Regarding new Trac Lock - all of the Explorer diffs were 31 spline, and they are still readily available used. And the same goes for gears.
I have seen some Mustang axles that are bent, but usually from an accident.
I run an 8.8 and have many reasons including all the years I spent setting them up at a shop I worked for. The 8.8 can do anything a Chevy 12 bolt can do as well as most of the things a 9" can do. I agree that any conventional differential on a 9" is going to be inferior because of the smaller gear sizing of the spiders and side gears.
The 8.8 is fairly light weight. Brand new OEM parts can be had cheap....I paid a little over $200 for the 31 spline Cobra Trac Lock and new Ford ring and pinion sets are way under $200 if you look on Ebay. Carrier and pinion bearings and shims are super easy to get and are shared with the 12 bolt Chevy.
My housing was from a 95 Crown Vic as I prefer the upper control arm ear angles better than the Mustang housings. It's been narrowed and has the Moser FM7900 housing ends that use the Ford 9" bearings. It's a street car that is driven on radials so it leads a pretty easy life and my engine is under 600 rwhp.
Realistically I could have probably saved myself a bunch of time and money and just kept my built 7.5
After doing it once I could easily duplicate it again.
The 8.8 is fairly light weight. Brand new OEM parts can be had cheap....I paid a little over $200 for the 31 spline Cobra Trac Lock and new Ford ring and pinion sets are way under $200 if you look on Ebay. Carrier and pinion bearings and shims are super easy to get and are shared with the 12 bolt Chevy.
My housing was from a 95 Crown Vic as I prefer the upper control arm ear angles better than the Mustang housings. It's been narrowed and has the Moser FM7900 housing ends that use the Ford 9" bearings. It's a street car that is driven on radials so it leads a pretty easy life and my engine is under 600 rwhp.
Realistically I could have probably saved myself a bunch of time and money and just kept my built 7.5
After doing it once I could easily duplicate it again.
