Blend door cable replacing HELP
- Thread starter 84cutspreme
- Start date
We just did this cable on my buddies MCSS last week.
Couple things we did:
1 - Using a heat gun we bent the locking tabs on the end that clicks into the rectangular boss on the heater box so it locked into place tightly. Otherwise it moves around and could pop out.
2 - We couldn't find the perfect sized retainer clip that holds the cable clip to the pivot bellcrank, so rather then potentially break the little pin trying to force/squeeze/press it on, or next time trying to get it off; we took screw driver tip and heated with torch then flattened it like a little mushroom.
Some might cringe at #2 but to be honest, that bellcrank is available if ever needed, plus just popping off the heater control rod from threads and the cable from retaining clip it can be then be rotated and removed so there's slack to pull the control head side out from dash if needed.
The best advice is just to be careful and don't force anything in the process, plastic is plastic so you're right to want to not break it.
The other end at control head should have screwed on retainer so it should be pretty sturdy.
HTH
Couple things we did:
1 - Using a heat gun we bent the locking tabs on the end that clicks into the rectangular boss on the heater box so it locked into place tightly. Otherwise it moves around and could pop out.
2 - We couldn't find the perfect sized retainer clip that holds the cable clip to the pivot bellcrank, so rather then potentially break the little pin trying to force/squeeze/press it on, or next time trying to get it off; we took screw driver tip and heated with torch then flattened it like a little mushroom.
Some might cringe at #2 but to be honest, that bellcrank is available if ever needed, plus just popping off the heater control rod from threads and the cable from retaining clip it can be then be rotated and removed so there's slack to pull the control head side out from dash if needed.
The best advice is just to be careful and don't force anything in the process, plastic is plastic so you're right to want to not break it.
The other end at control head should have screwed on retainer so it should be pretty sturdy.
HTH
Okay I was able to get cable completely out without breaking anything else! Appreciate the knowledge…I am trying to get little boomerang arm out. I was able to remove opaque clip attached to threaded rod. I have rotated arm in all directions and tried to gingerly apply upward tension hoping it would find the at perfect spot and come out. No luck yet. Any input?
It should have a set location you rotate it to in order to lift it out of the heater box. The two propeller like tabs (see highlighted in pic below) need to line up with the corresponding openings in the case, it's hard to see with the dash in the car, but if you rotate it with some upward pressure it should come out.
Save your "broken" arm. I've used a drill bit and drilled the broken plastic post that sticks up in the air out, replacing it with a threaded machine bolt and nuts. Good to do to have a spare.
I don't have a pic, nor could I find one however 69hurstolds posted about the same also noting you just have to rotate it with the cable and threaded rod disconnected and find where it lines up with the ears and it should lift right out of the box. It's likely going to be at one of the extreme positions in the range where it would never get to with the cable and threaded rod attached.
Where is it broke? If it's just the ARM broken, you can take what's left, remove any cables/rods attached to it, (don't break that threaded rod connector bushing, you'll pay hell getting a replacement. I think they make repros, but they're PRICEY!), and turn it so that the "wings" on the pivot pin line up with the corresponding slotted holes on the HVAC housing. You may not be able to see it without a mirror. Once it lines up, it'll come right out.
Is that position to remove it!?! I thought this was gonna be the easy part of this project lolI don't have a pic, nor could I find one however 69hurstolds posted about the same also noting you just have to rotate it with the cable and threaded rod disconnected and find where it lines up with the ears and it should lift right out of the box. It's likely going to be at one of the extreme positions in the range where it would never get to with the cable and threaded rod attached.
Where is it broke? If it's just the ARM broken, you can take what's left, remove any cables/rods attached to it, (don't break that threaded rod connector bushing, you'll pay hell getting a replacement. I think they make repros, but they're PRICEY!), and turn it so that the "wings" on the pivot pin line up with the corresponding slotted holes on the HVAC housing. You may not be able to see it without a mirror. Once it lines up, it'll come right out.
No. You will need to remove the door rod out of the clip and let the pivot freewheel. Then you need to turn it to a position it isn't normally going to see to get the wings to line up with the holes. Unfortunately, from under the dash, room isn't a luxury and everything will need to be handled from the upside down position so you can't really see it. Maybe if you have one of those extendable mirrors you could see it. Still a PITA.
Appreciate the info! I have everything disconnected from it. threaded rod and cable so it moves freely or as freely as possible. Fingers crossed 🤞🏻 I can get it to unlock without breaking off inside. I have tried seeing with mirror but no luck
Similar threads
