Body Mounts; Cage Nut alternative?

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Really the only reason I can see for the caged nuts is so that on the assembly line one person could line the body up on the frame and install the mounting bolt. Now I have made it a 2 person job on my car with 1 person in the car and one underneath.
 
Really the only reason I can see for the caged nuts is so that on the assembly line one person could line the body up on the frame and install the mounting bolt. Now I have made it a 2 person job on my car with 1 person in the car and one underneath.

the time it took me to make the cage nuts using the original plate plus the cost of the metric bolts was really a waste of time and money. It makes more sense to use sae nuts and bolts and buy someone lunch and a beer to help out
 
Get a hole saw and some plastic plugs and be done with it. Those caged nuts were for assembly line simplicity. Not serviceability.
 
On my Regal any nuts I had to replace I used a 2" square 1/4" thick washer and welded the next size up standard nut on it
On two of them where I had to make new body mount braces under the rear seat I just welded a bead on 2 sides next to the washer to allow some movement because I wanted to close that area up and weld it shut but the rest of the ones I replaced I welded in after getting the body lined up and then welded those areas closed when done.
 
Really the only reason I can see for the caged nuts is so that on the assembly line one person could line the body up on the frame and install the mounting bolt. Now I have made it a 2 person job on my car with 1 person in the car and one underneath.

OK, Will someone please explain how to line everything up? I did find detailed instructions here, that says to do one side at a time:
http://gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/bushings.html
My concern is that with a lot of rust, that may not work quite right. Someone else here did it by only keeping the two end bolts in the front, and then raising the back. How do I judge that everything is lined up properly?
 
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