Boost Lee

[Rt Jam]

The parts car is an 86 T Type that was pretty tired, rusted and missing many parts except for the key parts I needed.

 

[Rt Jam]

I was dismantling the parts car. Removing the fenders and I could not get the front fender to come off. Then after comparing to my other car. I realized the access hole behind the headlight was covered by a piece of metal that was not original. Started peeling it back and I can read PROPER NO. I figured, no sh*t. Someone had cut a piece of sign to "smooth" out the engine bay with a Private Property No Trespassing sign.

I was fully prepared to swap the frames. You can see I removed it and was preparing to take it somewhere to be sandblasted.

 

[Rt Jam]

Then the opportunity of a lifetime came up. The frame from ATR was available. For those who have sandblasted rusty metal. After painting you have a shiny but rough part. This frame was like brand new. Zero rust, I scratched it with a Scotchbrite pad and sprayed it with urethane low gloss black. It is so smooth, it's ashamed to hide it under this car.

Pagrunt. I did not take any pictures of the steering boot repair but the upper knuckle must be removed to get it apart. Carefully bent the tabs back. Pushed the pin out with a hydraulic press. Cleaned and re greased it all up. Reassembled with a new boot from Classic Industries. Bend the fingers back to pinch the boot down and it's good as new. My rag joint is tight as new and even the steering coupler from the well worn parts car is solid. I understand 2 U joints from a Jeep has no play, even used but a Jeep is a unibody. Our cars have a separate frame with a body mounted on rubber bushing. The steering must telescope in order for the steering column and box to survive.

 

[Rt Jam]

Here are some shots of the new frame painted. It was scuffed with a Scotch brite pad. Then shot with black primer/activator. Then followed by 2 coats of Urethane/activator/hardener, semi gloss black.

 

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Towed it to my friends place to do the swap on his hoist. No engine, front body or rear bumper. We only had to disconnect steering shaft and brake lines to master. All the bolts came out. The beauty of a rust free car. After we dropped the old frame we transferred over the brake line to rear. I thought this would take all weekend. Two and a half hours later it was on the tow truck to return home.

 

[Rt Jam]

Viking double adjustable shocks, 450lbs/in springs 2." diameter, UMI front control arms for coil overs and tall ball joints.
Max brake rotors/pads, BCA bearings, Blazer spindles and calipers. All Star steel braid brake hoses and accessories.
Even though my steering joints were all pretty mint. I replaced it all with AC Delco Pro series.

 

[Rt Jam]

New Goodmark reproduction header panel. This is a complicated part. It attaches to fenders, radiator support, houses headlights, headlights bezels, bumper fillers and grille. The fit to the fenders is pretty good but a couple posts to reach radiator support are a bit short. There are 2 bolts with captive washers to attach to fenders. Could not use original bolts. The holes would not allow the big washers. Had to use socket head cap screws with no washers. Just need the white nut inserts for the headlight bezels. Besides those minor items it is a nice piece but not quite OEM.

 

[Rt Jam]

The original GM header panel from the parts car had a couple broken posts and the ear to hold the headlight bezel was broken. So I bought a Goodmark reproduction header panel. It may be new but it took many hours to get it to work.

The fenders and hood are from the 86 T Type and reproduction grille, headlight bezels, marker lights, Octane H4 headlights, bumper from GlassTek, Goodmark bumper fillers.

 

[64nailhead]

That looks great! Well done.

 

[Rt Jam]

Got some wiring done. Installed my new engine wiring harness and headlight harness. My headlight harness now just turns on relays. Not much of a milestone but it's the first time the lights have been on and windows powered down in 10 years.