Buick 455 Crankshaft Endplay

[455'ed80Regal]

Yea a Buick Racer as myself said .008 but I will pm Jim Wiese and see if he says that.

I was going to suggest talking with him. One of THE best.

 

[pontiacgp]

Setting the shells both against one side of the cap is crucial, I've seen alot of guys sand the main only to find out they made it to wide, if you are happy with .007 then your set if you want to open it up 800 grit 3M wet or dry paper with WD-40 works the best, don't get carried away remember .002 is a sheet if paper sliced three times so its not much

I use a piece of glass with the sand paper taped to it and slide the surface of the bearing over the sand paper to keep the surface of the bearing flat

 

[ronbz455]

Ok the pistons are in and Rollmaster timing chain set but that chain is a replacement chain from O"Reilly's and it is tight but tight means no timing change when running but hopes it's not too tight.

 

[Fox80]

How do you define tight, it can't be to tight it will put unwanted stress on the front cam and main bearing, I think I would get my hands on a quality chain set if your not comfortable with that one

 

[ronbz455]

I can still move both sides about a 1/2" so it should be ok. last look before the pan goes on and some oil in the pick up tube. I turn the pump and oil shot out so I Got Oil!

 

[ronbz455]

What kind of oil do you guys use for breakin? The cam and lifters are already broke in a long time ago. I 'm just wondering for the bearings and rings.

 

[Fox80]

If the cam is already broke in just make sure you have good lifter rotation, mark the lifter and the block with a sharpie rotate the motor a few times and make sure they spin, then any non synthetic oil with a zinc additive would be fine, or something like Joe Gibbs oil or Lucas racing oil if you got the cash

 

[pontiacgp]

car craft say "that the joe gibbs break in oil is dam near the best one to use because it has high levels of the zinc and phosphorus (whats needed for break in) and it leaves out the detergents that are in regular oil. They say that the detergents cause the Zn and P to be less effective. They also said use light springs and change them out to the regular stiff ones after break in. Another thing they may have said (i read a bunch of stuff yesterday on cam break in) is that the lube you are supposed to place all over the cam doesnt last that long and ends up dripping off if left too long before you start it."

I'm lazy so I have a roller cam...

 

[Fox80]

Joe Gibbs is actually the best oil for even after break in, but all racing only oils can put more zinc in them they don't have to abide by the EPA laws for street oils, all cup motors have friction cams so they have to figure out the oils

 

[ronbz455]

Well made my first run last night and it was fast 1.485 60' 6.87 1/8 but lost oil pressure to 40+ at 3/4 track and let off to 11.01 1/4.
We tryed a shorter spring since the adjuster was all the way out but after 2nd gear lost it again and then the intake was leaking causing the idle to be higher. It had a 1.470 that time so it's ready to fly if I can keep the oil pressure up.
Today I added 1 QT of oil with a 6 QT pan making 7 and changed the intake gasket and worked on the front brake drums for low brake pedal. I had the white spring in it and it was 60 at the 1500 idle so I put the other long spring in it and it was 40 to 50 at idle and ran it at 5300 RPM's for 15 seconds and it fluctuated around 80 but never dropped below 60. I'm going to run the NMCA finals at Indy tomorrow and see what happens. I'm looking for a bigger pan right now so if anyone has one let me know. I'm thinking about putting the adjuster back in there and putting some more pressure on the pressure valve and see if that cuts down on the fluctuation of the pressure at 5500 RPM's.