To add to this, you must ask yourself the question of where will you do MOST of your driving? If it's mainly road racing, drifting and cornering and such, go with that negative camber and positive caster setting as mentioned in fleming442 's post above. But if you're just going to go to the local car shows/swap meets and generally cruising around, go with some more street friendly camber/caster settings, such as factory recommendations. You don't want that upper ball joint leading your axle centerline though, (negative caster) otherwise you'll wander the road like a shopping cart. Look at the cart's front wheels. Loads of negative caster. Easy to steer, but hell to hold straight at any real speed.
If you take out say, one shim on the front of the A-arm, and add that same shim to the rear, you SHOULD be able to add a little positive caster to that side without affecting camber. Your goal is to move that upper ball joint toward the rear without moving it in or out changing your camber. Obviously you need to re-check when you change anything.
They even do the old british ones. I gave them a call this afternoon and their answer was that they would gladly have a go at a US-Car. They even offered to pick it at my place, return it afterwards 😍 They will not only shim where needed, but first determine the exact sizes, and then they manufacture spacers in order to get the whole thing as robust as possible. The alignment will be done on a laser-bench with 3D-Analysis, and taking in consideration the alignment of the frame itself. Never heard that before, but hey, if it gets the work done, I am perfectly fine with it, even if it won't come cheap.
!!!! That's cool!
