Carburetor Problems
- Thread starter johnson350
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So I haven't really been driving it too much lately, but finally got around to messing with it today.
Well I plugged the egr lines, no difference. Also checked the air horn screws, still tight like they should be.
Took the car out a little today, car seemed to be driving pretty well (except the sticking valve for the lockup torque converter, very annoying while driving in town :evil: ).
Probably drove it for maybe 45 minutes to an hour. Stopped to get gas. Slightly hard to start after filling up, almost as if it was flooded slightly.
Got home and popped the hood to check on everything and noticed a small pool of gasoline sitting in the pockets of the manifold. They were located right underneath the choke thermostat on the carb. Very odd indeed, anyone know what's going on?
Also seemed to use a bit more fuel than it usually does, as in I'm getting awful mileage.
Well I plugged the egr lines, no difference. Also checked the air horn screws, still tight like they should be.
Took the car out a little today, car seemed to be driving pretty well (except the sticking valve for the lockup torque converter, very annoying while driving in town :evil: ).
Probably drove it for maybe 45 minutes to an hour. Stopped to get gas. Slightly hard to start after filling up, almost as if it was flooded slightly.
Got home and popped the hood to check on everything and noticed a small pool of gasoline sitting in the pockets of the manifold. They were located right underneath the choke thermostat on the carb. Very odd indeed, anyone know what's going on?
Also seemed to use a bit more fuel than it usually does, as in I'm getting awful mileage.
Its very possible the needle and seat is not closing and with todays crap ethanol gas and just a tiny bit too much fuel pressure can flood a hot motor pretty quick
Try cleaning the carb then make sure your not running more than 7 psi of fuel pressure
Try cleaning the carb then make sure your not running more than 7 psi of fuel pressure
I figured I'm going to have to pull off the carb eventually. Strange because the carb is pretty new. But I think it may have sat on a shelf for a while before so I wouldn't doubt that's the problem at all.
I'll look into the fuel pressure, it does have a brand new fuel pump on it.
I'll look into the fuel pressure, it does have a brand new fuel pump on it.
buy a bucket of diesel fuel and let the carb sit in it a few days. That will clean all the deposits and varnish in the carb without harming anything.
johnson350 said:
sounds like a fuel level problem now.
As mantioned above something in the fuel inlet seat will let the carb overfill
Also a bad float that sinks has the same effect.
Could be the float is sticking too low or is set too high
This causes the carb to overfill and go super rich. Sometimes can spill over and out of the carb.
Super rich idle can be wavy/inconsistent, and over rich conditions lack power when driving for sure.
time to take the top of the carb off.
if there is something causing the bowl to overflow take the fuel line off the carb and plug the fuel line. Then start the car and run the carb dry. Then put the fuel line back on and see if that cured it.
Well back to the carb problem, I decided to park it for this week, it's just getting too bad of mileage for me to drive it. Have to drive the Blazer for the remainder of the week till I can get some time to work on it this weekend.
I think it may have something to do with maybe the TPS or M/C solenoid. Anyone know how to properly test these? It doesn't always seem to run rich, plus the car ran great and got excellent mileage when I put the carb on a few months ago.
I was driving it a bit ago, about when this problem first came about. The service engine soon light did come on and didn't go out till I got home and shut it off. Checked the code and it was a TPS error code I believe. Cleared it thinking it was just a computer mess up. The service engine light has not come on again since I reset the computer. So not sure what's up, but I think it is running in open loop since I don't have lockup.
I haven't had lockup for over a year or maybe two now, just ran in a manual switch and it works fine. Computer is not locking it up for whatever reason, already diagnosed brake switch and all the wiring is good.
I think it may have something to do with maybe the TPS or M/C solenoid. Anyone know how to properly test these? It doesn't always seem to run rich, plus the car ran great and got excellent mileage when I put the carb on a few months ago.
I was driving it a bit ago, about when this problem first came about. The service engine soon light did come on and didn't go out till I got home and shut it off. Checked the code and it was a TPS error code I believe. Cleared it thinking it was just a computer mess up. The service engine light has not come on again since I reset the computer. So not sure what's up, but I think it is running in open loop since I don't have lockup.
I haven't had lockup for over a year or maybe two now, just ran in a manual switch and it works fine. Computer is not locking it up for whatever reason, already diagnosed brake switch and all the wiring is good.
get out the meter and chack your dwell. this will tell you if youre stuck in open loop. If you can hear the mcs clicking then at least you know the MCS is not the problem.
I think TPS and MCS codes are like #21 22 23 in the manual usually. Find the right chart and go thru the diagnostics.
I think TPS and MCS codes are like #21 22 23 in the manual usually. Find the right chart and go thru the diagnostics.
I can hear the M/C solenoid, so it's working. I'm pretty sure it threw code 21.
I'll pull out the trusty dwell meter tonight and see what we got.
I'll pull out the trusty dwell meter tonight and see what we got.
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