Converter lock-up question.

[TeezySupreme]

Then IMO you should just stick with a quality lockup unit ( call PTC ) and get a lockup kit. A good transmission cooler is always a good thing too, but you don't need one of those fancy ones with the fan.

So now you just need to decide wether you want a lockup kit that will lockup every time you attain a certain speed or above ( like the B&M kit ) or you want one that will lock/unlock according to your vacuum and brake application ( like the Painless kit ). It's YOUR decision to make. Both kits have advantages and disadvantages. Personally, I like the Painless kit. Which ever one you get just remember you can always add a toggle switch at any time so you can turn off your lockup function whenever you feel like not dealing with their 'side effects'.

Alright thank you for clearing the cooler situation up another question what type of converter was the stock converter we removed the engine and transmission from my dad's Deville can't remember the model.

 

[DoubleV]

I don't know what converters came in Devilles. I know that at least some Caddies came with the same D5 converters ( 2200ish+ stall ) as the H/O's, 442's, Monte SS, and GN's. The D5 is fine for a mild engine, but a QUALITY converter with a higher stall would be better. I've never had the pleasure of driving a car with a QUALITY high stall converter, but everybody who has says they would never go back to a crappy stocker or a budget POS like a TCI or B&M.

If you're looking for a nice converter ( and detailed info about them ), just call PTC or another reputable place that makes quality converters. Remember, TCI and B&M are NOT quality converters. They're nothing but over the counter, generic budget units. They're to converters as Flowtechs are to headers.

 

[dogsht]

Here is my 2 cents worth to get what you really want from your car. Get as much cam as you have compression, gears etc to take advantage of. Hopefully you can take advantage of something close to 230@50 duration. Cheap headers are worth the money but get good gaskets like remflex. Get a high stall lock up stall converter that will get well into the torque range of that cam. You can get up to a 3,000 lock up converter pretty cheap. I had two stock "D5" converters built up furnace brazed anti balooning yada yada for $300. Even if peak torque of said cam & lil 350 is at 4,000 rpm you are into the meat of the torque range by 3,000 rpm. With the lock up you will never know that you have a high stall converter except when you smack the go pedal and it puts a grin on your face thats hard to wipe off.

An inexpensive transmission cooler and quality shift kit like the one I bought from CK Performance for $100 will go a long way toward getting that "weak" 200-4R to hold up to abuse. You don't need a high dollar deep pan for your needs but if you wanted one an inexpensive 700-4R pan that is deeper and a flipped pick up mod will work. The more expensive billet forward drum/shaft is not needed for a small less than 500 foot pounds of torque 350. At least if you are not running slicks and transbrake.

I copied and pasted this from another thread;
Many would say the 200-4R is the ideal transmission but the answer depends on who built it with what and how. For a mild 350 with some decent rear gears any decent rebuild should make that thing hold up just fine, even to some abuse. For a performance real street car 3 speeds are sorely outdated. They either provide performance or mileage or some compromise but not both performance and mileage like a properly setup overdrive will. GM put the 200-4R in all the high performance gbodys. The 700-R4 can also be good but is more ideally geared for a heavy pickup powered by a weak motor as its got an ultra low first gear to help it get moving.

 

[motorholmes]

So now you just need to decide wether you want a lockup kit that will lockup every time you attain a certain speed or above ( like the B&M kit ) or you want one that will lock/unlock according to your vacuum and brake application ( like the Painless kit ).

Which ever one you get just remember you can always add a toggle switch at any time so you can turn off your lockup function whenever you feel like not dealing with their 'side effects'.

Why can't a guy get the B&M kit and install some sort of vacuum switch too, so it will cycle on/off when you hit the throttle? I'm sure there's some kind of switch a guy could buy.

As far as the "dropping the pan" question, as far as I can tell the B&M kit does not require it unless you have an early model trans. Look at the pdf instruction manual on the B&M website to see what I'm talking about. I have a late 700r4, and I think mine is a no-drop-pan type.

 

[TeezySupreme]

Here is my 2 cents worth to get what you really want from your car. Get as much cam as you have compression, gears etc to take advantage of. Hopefully you can take advantage of something close to 230@50 duration. Cheap headers are worth the money but get good gaskets like remflex. Get a high stall lock up stall converter that will get well into the torque range of that cam. You can get up to a 3,000 lock up converter pretty cheap. I had two stock "D5" converters built up furnace brazed anti balooning yada yada for $300. Even if peak torque of said cam & lil 350 is at 4,000 rpm you are into the meat of the torque range by 3,000 rpm. With the lock up you will never know that you have a high stall converter except when you smack the go pedal and it puts a grin on your face thats hard to wipe off.

An inexpensive transmission cooler and quality shift kit like the one I bought from CK Performance for $100 will go a long way toward getting that "weak" 200-4R to hold up to abuse. You don't need a high dollar deep pan for your needs but if you wanted one an inexpensive 700-4R pan that is deeper and a flipped pick up mod will work. The more expensive billet forward drum/shaft is not needed for a small less than 500 foot pounds of torque 350. At least if you are not running slicks and transbrake.

I copied and pasted this from another thread;
Many would say the 200-4R is the ideal transmission but the answer depends on who built it with what and how. For a mild 350 with some decent rear gears any decent rebuild should make that thing hold up just fine, even to some abuse. For a performance real street car 3 speeds are sorely outdated. They either provide performance or mileage or some compromise but not both performance and mileage like a properly setup overdrive will. GM put the 200-4R in all the high performance gbodys. The 700-R4 can also be good but is more ideally geared for a heavy pickup powered by a weak motor as its got an ultra low first gear to help it get moving.

Very well detailed thanks for the info and what if my cams rpm is 800-4500? what size stall converter to get then?

 

[dogsht]

Generally ideal stall is at peak torque. That sounds like a VERY mild or stock cam as in not enough to provide 325HP and leaving LOTS of power on the table. What is your actual compression? While were at it what rear gears do you have?

BTW that was $300 for each converter and again I supplied the core.

 

[chstonebraker]

my cam is a 2000 to 6500 rpm cam and im going with a 2500 2800 stall. i think i would do a light stall like a 1800 or 2000 stall. it will give you better take off than stock by far but with the gears you got that cam is not going to do you much good in my opinion. i think you said you were running a 4.56 gear was that right? if its a daily driver i would stick to 4.10s then your cam would be better sooted for your rpms you will run. with that low of gear you have you will be out of the power ban of your cam in no time

 

[chstonebraker]

ok i think i got two posts ran together here. lol thats small of cam do a 1800 2000 stall would work best probably

 

[TeezySupreme]

Generally ideal stall is at peak torque. That sounds like a VERY mild or stock cam as in not enough to provide 325HP and leaving LOTS of power on the table. What is your actual compression? While were at it what rear gears do you have?

BTW that was $300 for each converter and again I supplied the core.

Im trying looking for another set of head's before i attempt to get a cam because i have 8 heads on now and
i'm going to have a very low so ill just let you guys know what type of heads i run up on.

 

[TeezySupreme]

my cam is a 2000 to 6500 rpm cam and im going with a 2500 2800 stall. i think i would do a light stall like a 1800 or 2000 stall. it will give you better take off than stock by far but with the gears you got that cam is not going to do you much good in my opinion. i think you said you were running a 4.56 gear was that right? if its a daily driver i would stick to 4.10s then your cam would be better sooted for your rpms you will run. with that low of gear you have you will be out of the power ban of your cam in no time

No, im running 3.73.