chstonebraker said:ok i think i got two posts ran together here. lol thats small of cam do a 1800 2000 stall would work best probably
Yes lol i'm new to olds motors trying to learn as much as i can.
chstonebraker said:ok i think i got two posts ran together here. lol thats small of cam do a 1800 2000 stall would work best probably
dogshit said:CHstonebraker, Given the OPs goals instead of picking a stall for his stockish cam wouldn't you recommend he first fix his compression & cam before getting the converter so that he doesn't have to buy twice. Also what is your peak torque rpm as you may be picking a converter that is too mild to fully take advantage of your cam.
dogshit said:You are pretty much going to have that by virtue of having 350 cubic inches. More cam makes more torque and especially horsepower but does so at the expense of requiring more rpm before you get to it.
TeezySupreme said:dogshit said:You are pretty much going to have that by virtue of having 350 cubic inches. More cam makes more torque and especially horsepower but does so at the expense of requiring more rpm before you get to it.
The cam size also is calculated on my compression right?
DoubleV said:TeezySupreme said:dogshit said:You are pretty much going to have that by virtue of having 350 cubic inches. More cam makes more torque and especially horsepower but does so at the expense of requiring more rpm before you get to it.
The cam size also is calculated on my compression right?
Calculated? You just need to match a cam with the proper compression ratio. Since it seems you have a stock 73-76 350, that means you have very low compression which means you can't use a 'big' performance cam. If you did, your car would be a dog especially down low and you will be very unhappy. If you had a high compression ratio ( which would allow for a big cam ) and you put a really small dinky cam in it instead, it would require very high octane gas to run or it will detonate like crazy.
Since it appears you want to go fast and have to do alot of work to your engine to get there, I would just stick with getting your converter lockup done first and then worry about ripping your engine apart later.
motorholmes said:DoubleV said:So now you just need to decide wether you want a lockup kit that will lockup every time you attain a certain speed or above ( like the B&M kit ) or you want one that will lock/unlock according to your vacuum and brake application ( like the Painless kit ).
Which ever one you get just remember you can always add a toggle switch at any time so you can turn off your lockup function whenever you feel like not dealing with their 'side effects'.
Why can't a guy get the B&M kit and install some sort of vacuum switch too, so it will cycle on/off when you hit the throttle? I'm sure there's some kind of switch a guy could buy.
motorholmes said:OK well, I'm gonna take you up on that. As soon as I get done fabricating alt and A/C brackets, wiring, finishing the fuel lines, installing the B&M shifter, and the Air fuel gauge...Oh yeah, and the exhaust.. I'm going to attempt to make a throttle switch that at least unlocks the converter if you give it more than about 1/3 throttle. That should make it user-friendly enough for my wife to buzz around once in a while without having any issues.
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