Converter lock-up question.

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chstonebraker said:
ok i think i got two posts ran together here. lol thats small of cam do a 1800 2000 stall would work best probably

Yes lol i'm new to olds motors trying to learn as much as i can.
 
CHstonebraker, Given the OPs goals instead of picking a stall for his stockish cam wouldn't you recommend he first fix his compression & cam before getting the converter so that he doesn't have to buy twice. Also what is your peak torque rpm as you may be picking a converter that is too mild to fully take advantage of your cam.

Teezy, To be honest you are pretty green to building performance motors / setups period so it has little to do with Olds. But the figuring it out and challenge of learning and building something fast is almost as much fun as having something fast. Less people stand up like you and pick something they like than what follow the go fast cheapest herd and this makes it all the more challenging cool & rewarding.
 
dogshit said:
CHstonebraker, Given the OPs goals instead of picking a stall for his stockish cam wouldn't you recommend he first fix his compression & cam before getting the converter so that he doesn't have to buy twice. Also what is your peak torque rpm as you may be picking a converter that is too mild to fully take advantage of your cam.

I want at least 350+ in torque. if it's possible with my build.
 
You are pretty much going to have that by virtue of having 350 cubic inches. More cam makes more torque and especially horsepower but does so at the expense of requiring more rpm before you get to it.
 
dogshit said:
You are pretty much going to have that by virtue of having 350 cubic inches. More cam makes more torque and especially horsepower but does so at the expense of requiring more rpm before you get to it.

The cam size also is calculated on my compression right?
 
TeezySupreme said:
dogshit said:
You are pretty much going to have that by virtue of having 350 cubic inches. More cam makes more torque and especially horsepower but does so at the expense of requiring more rpm before you get to it.

The cam size also is calculated on my compression right?

Calculated? You just need to match a cam with the proper compression ratio. Since it seems you have a stock 73-76 350, that means you have very low compression which means you can't use a 'big' performance cam. If you did, your car would be a dog especially down low and you will be very unhappy. If you had a high compression ratio ( which would allow for a big cam ) and you put a really small dinky cam in it instead, it would require very high octane gas to run or it will detonate like crazy.

Since it appears you want to go fast and have to do alot of work to your engine to get there, I would just stick with getting your converter lockup done first and then worry about ripping your engine apart later.
 
DoubleV said:
TeezySupreme said:
dogshit said:
You are pretty much going to have that by virtue of having 350 cubic inches. More cam makes more torque and especially horsepower but does so at the expense of requiring more rpm before you get to it.

The cam size also is calculated on my compression right?

Calculated? You just need to match a cam with the proper compression ratio. Since it seems you have a stock 73-76 350, that means you have very low compression which means you can't use a 'big' performance cam. If you did, your car would be a dog especially down low and you will be very unhappy. If you had a high compression ratio ( which would allow for a big cam ) and you put a really small dinky cam in it instead, it would require very high octane gas to run or it will detonate like crazy.

Since it appears you want to go fast and have to do alot of work to your engine to get there, I would just stick with getting your converter lockup done first and then worry about ripping your engine apart later.


I couldn't think of another word lol. but I was going to do the transmission first to get that out the way. I also wasn't looking to get a cam yet until i change my head's and i think my number matched a 68-70 well that's what the compter said.
 
motorholmes said:
DoubleV said:
So now you just need to decide wether you want a lockup kit that will lockup every time you attain a certain speed or above ( like the B&M kit ) or you want one that will lock/unlock according to your vacuum and brake application ( like the Painless kit ).

Which ever one you get just remember you can always add a toggle switch at any time so you can turn off your lockup function whenever you feel like not dealing with their 'side effects'.

Why can't a guy get the B&M kit and install some sort of vacuum switch too, so it will cycle on/off when you hit the throttle? I'm sure there's some kind of switch a guy could buy.

No, there's no 'switch' you can buy. If you want the best of both worlds, you'll have to do whatever it is you gotta do to make it all work on your own. If you're talented enough, you can do anything, but I don't like recommending complicated custom jobs to novices because I know they're never going to go through with doing something like that and it's usually not necessary anyway.
 
OK well, I'm gonna take you up on that. As soon as I get done fabricating alt and A/C brackets, wiring, finishing the fuel lines, installing the B&M shifter, and the Air fuel gauge...Oh yeah, and the exhaust.. I'm going to attempt to make a throttle switch that at least unlocks the converter if you give it more than about 1/3 throttle. That should make it user-friendly enough for my wife to buzz around once in a while without having any issues.
 
motorholmes said:
OK well, I'm gonna take you up on that. As soon as I get done fabricating alt and A/C brackets, wiring, finishing the fuel lines, installing the B&M shifter, and the Air fuel gauge...Oh yeah, and the exhaust.. I'm going to attempt to make a throttle switch that at least unlocks the converter if you give it more than about 1/3 throttle. That should make it user-friendly enough for my wife to buzz around once in a while without having any issues.

If that was directed at me; I didn't say it couldn't be done. In fact I stated this can be done. I just said there was no aftermarket switch/doodad that was specifically made to combine a B&M lockup function with a vacuum operated one like the Painless kit which it seemed like you were asking about.

As far as wanting to make a throttle switch to unlock the converter at X amount of throttle, that's kinda what the Painless kit already does. If you give your car throttle, vacuum drops and if it drops enough, it will unlock the converter. If you want to change the 'sensitivity' of the unlock ( so it unlocks with less throttle ), try inserting an adjustable valve like the ones for aquarium air pump/bubblers in-line so you can adjust the amount of vacuum the vacuum switch sees. This is what I was going to do but never got around to getting a good valve.
 
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