Converting to tubular a arms

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One more detail. the control arm bushings have a steel insert. The way the bushings are supposed to work is that they are clamped between the frame tabs. Proper set up is to leave them just slightly loose until the car is sitting on the suspension, then torque to spec. This way, the bushings are not 'loaded' when the car is in the 'rest' position. Hard to do on your back, but you can ask the alignment shop to final torque all the bolts when the car is up on the ramp lift/alignment rack.
 
Drivers and passengers shims
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When you break those shocks loose, you might find the rod just spins in the frame. The end of the rod (in the picture) is oval. You can use a special tool/nut from Lisle to hold that end when breaking the nut loose, or use vice grips, or torch the rod off.
 
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Shims are easy to find. You want the ones that are slotted 1/2". Look like factory and not much money. also I bought them from here. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/hardware---fasteners/shims---bushings/shim/5af7295f5107?q=shim

I also bought every grade 10.9 nut, washer and bolt for my front and from belmetric in MA. I used flanged prevailing torque nuts for the rear suspension on my 81. Belmetric sells any amount, has quality stuff and usually ships USPS very fast. Some orders went out the same day because I called them early.
 
I noticed in the video, the coil springs had rings. Looks like to me they sit on the bottom of the a arm. The coils I got don't have. Do I need these?
 
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For fronts shocks if they are junk, I just take a deep wheel socket on a long extension to bend the shaft a few times until it breaks off at the base,
 
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