Converting to tubular a arms

[Ugly1]

As long as you have a good spring compressor it'll be a RR itself. Remove the shocks, unbolt the end links, compress springs, loosen ball joints, remove/install one arm at a time, put it all back together. This will also be a good time to swap springs if needed too.

If you are renting the spring compressor look it over real good!! Having one break when your putting it together gets rather exciting. Or have a floor jack under it as a safety until the ball joint is bolted back in.

 

[Kelvin's80442]

If you are renting the spring compressor look it over real good!! Having one break when your putting it together gets rather exciting. Or have a floor jack under it as a safety until the ball joint is bolted back in.

I bought a brand new one.

 

[Ugly1]

I just see nasty sh*t with loaded tension in them springs. I do have the motor in, so shouldn't be too bad. Once she up and wheels off, I will have a better understanding. Don't think will be anything too terrible, might be just a bugger to get the compression tool in the spring

The one that works well is able to go up in the shock hole and compresses the spring. It’s really not very expensive to buy new.

 

[Ugly1]

I bought a brand new one.

Good deal!! Had a rented one break with my legs on each side of the spindle. Only 3 turns on the ball joint nut. Was not happy to say the least.

 

[pagrunt]

If you are renting the spring compressor look it over real good!! Having one break when your putting it together gets rather exciting. Or have a floor jack under it as a safety until the ball joint is bolted back in.

I also brought a new one. Don't really trust used rentals cause you never know how the last guy treated it.

 

[MontesbyE]

Is there a thread here on how to convert to tubular a arms? I searched but cannot find. Rest of my parts are in Wednesday. Seems pretty straightforward but I am concerned with RR of the coil springs.
I bought the tool that compresses them. Just seen too many bad videos of them springs.

 

[Kelvin's80442]

Cool. Thanks

 

[Ugly1]

So other than being stiffer from the poly bushings and some weight loss. what is the gain going to that style A-arm setup?

 

[melloelky]

The weight loss is almost a negligible amount,for the money. Most of your arms on the market are just tube versions of the stockers. Coming from a age standpoint point some of these arms are 40 plus years old and ive seen them develop cracks around the lower ball joint area and that's pretty sketchy as there's your load bearing. Price wise what do you really gain if you don't buy the ones that incorporate better geometry?Hell I can see it from a standpoint where I wouldn't want to rebush/joint an old arm an still have what I started with.it all depends on what your goals ultimately.

 

[ssn696]

The main reason you'd want to make this swap is to replace the uppers with aftermarket arms that have longer geometry and/or tall ball joints. Besides getting new bushings for free, these features correct the factory steering geometry - as the weight of the car compresses the spring, swinging the arm up, the factory design tends to pivot the top of that wheel outwards in a turn, creating 'positive camber'. That means the tire working hardest to turn the car is rolled onto its sidewall, shrinking the tread contact patch. Combine with a good sway bar, and maybe lowering springs, you will feel an improvement in handling. Moog factory-style lower control arms are available with new bushings and ball joints for less than tubular lowers. You may need to use S10 arms, as the supply of G-specific parts has dwindled over 40 years. The S10 arms need larger-diameter bolts, but you can drill the frame holes to match.