Cutlass won’t start **Help!

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69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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I don't blame you Dayzedandkonfuzed

I'm breaking my rule of minimum 25 posts for noobs here, but when I read post #8 and I see fried stuff in your future if someone doesn't give you some more information to help you make decisions.

But first, you need to ground that coil properly and that's by using that ground strap. And are you using the heatsink grease stuff on the proper parts where needed, like module and coil? That's a special grease, don't just use anything.

Did you get the right coil polarity? i.e. for Olds V8 you got the Red/white wire one, correct? You should have coil GM p/n 1985474 or equivalent. (ACDelco # D531) or equivalent. These parts are from the parts book callouts for your car, so some numbers may have been updated. But it's always a good place to start.

The module is a 6 prong module? Last I checked, Olds V8 CCC cars used 7 prong ones. 5 on one side, 2 on the other. GM p/n 1976908 (ACDelco # D1956) or equivalent.

If you have to replace the pickup coil, make sure you get the correct one for the Olds (. Don't let the typical doofus kid at the parts store that don't know squat about HEI (all you parts counter guys out there, no offense, but you know the ones I mean) get you the wrong part. Olds normally uses a black connector on the pickup coil, which is called a pole piece. That connector color is an easy way to tell. Auto parts guys may not know the differences and give you a CHEVY only part because the majority of Cutlass cars in Canada had Chevy V8s. So the listing may say it fits your car but it may not.

PLEASE read this below. Some of it isn't applicable, especially the vacuum can and weights, and the fact it's mainly talking about Chevy, but there is some good, basic stuff in there about HEIs and good tips on dos and don'ts, as well as differences in the Olds/Pontiac/Chevy wiring. And a section of the NO SPARK BLUES. There's a way to test major components without having a bunch of whamodyne special tools. If you're REALLY interested in testing things, you'll need to get a few things mentioned in the article below. Pickup coil should be GM p/n 1977207 (ACDelco # D1945) or equivalent. Autozone sells the Duralast part number DR110 for your application. I'm assuming you have a U.S. version car.


OK, now I'm out. Good luck with that.
 
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Rigo’s87

Greasemonkey
Aug 31, 2019
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Houston, Texas
Update..
First all I just want to say thank you, to everyone involved... olds307 and 403, airboatgreg, 565bbchevy, 69hurstolds. After scratching my head in the heat and posting on here, I didn’t believe I would get any reply for guidance, again thank you. After all this I went back and exchanged the ignition module
(w/ 7 pins, don’t know why this morning I seen 6 pins on the kitchen table) and I installed it back on and the cutty and it roared again. This time I let it warm up and after several on and off, I took it for a ride and its back to normal. I did put the ground metal strap on coil, which it didn’t have one in 3 years but it’s on. I’m pleased to say that it actually cranks on without having to smash the gas once or twice. Thanks to everyone.

69hurstolds
I found that site to be extremely helpful and once I get better situated I will be purchasing some of the tools mentioned. Most of all I appreciate you breaking your rule.
 
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69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
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Glad you got it back on the road. Now you should take pictures of your car and upload them to share for all of us. We like pictures of stuff.
 
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Rigo’s87

Greasemonkey
Aug 31, 2019
113
220
43
Houston, Texas
416246CB-5EDE-4A1D-8A7A-1D6C92C8305F.jpeg
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,611
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Michigan
Good to hear it now runs as good as it looks.
 
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69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
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Nice blue! Contrasts great with the chrome. Thanks for sharing.
 
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