Cylinder Head bolt question/problem

Status
Not open for further replies.
in the first post with part of the thread pulled up what do the rest of the threads look like? Can you put a bolt in without any binding?
 
When I stalled the bolts I only used engine oil on the threads. I realized now I should have had some sealant on there instead and some oil on thaft
Any engine without blind head bolt holes I use a sealant because some bolts will enter water ports.
 
Looking at the pic, I think it was decked by the machine marks on the surface, and the holes do not look like they were chamfered after decking. Looks to me like it pulled the top thread up as the bolt was tightened.

To answer your last question, no, and you wouldn't want all the machining chips floating around inside an assembled engine anyway.

I am concerned that it was pulling threads at 60 lb/ft though

You should also lube the washer face under the head of the bolt when assembling
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Texas82GP
If this is a stock to very mild build and if a machine shop repair is not the plan and if it is there is only one bad head bolt hole then I would say the only option would be go ahead and drill out the hole to the proper size for a Helicoil and carefully re-chamfer the hole until it is flush with the deck and verify with a known precision straight edge and also make sure you get the Helicoil inserted below the chamfer.
And when drilling try your best to keep the drill perpendicular to the deck surface.
 
If you are concerned about making sure the bolts are not pulling anymore threads out you could always use studs
 
You should check yer torque wrench.. I would say its off by several ft.lbs. Have a look at the threads on the other bolts that were torqued. See if there is any evidence of over torquing. Should never pull the threads at 60ft lbs. One easy way to check if the block was decked is put number one up on true tdc and measure the height from the top of the piston to the top of the deck. Stock deck height is 0.025.
 
If that's the bolt hole that pulled the threads I can see that happening. I pulled a threat on a 406 (performance build) used a helicoid w/ no problems. Since you changed head bolts make sure you are getting full thread engagement.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I got outside to the garage today to have another look at that raised lip. I started to push on it with a razor and it chunked off now so there a good chip around the bolt hole. (Attached pic)

As far as the torque wrench is concerned I don't think it's off just because I only bought it last weekend and it came with a sheet showing that it had been calibrated (still could be off though you never know) but i wouldn't bet on it.

I also checked the threads of all the bolt holes and they were like butter going in.. Except the bad one obviously lol and the bolts had no signs of over torquing so it looks like the problem is only the one hole.

I am really hoping to avoid spending money at the machine shop and was wondering if I put my helicoil in that chipped bolt hole will I be ok to put the cylinder head back on? I am hoping that's the case but if its risky to do so than I would probably just take it to a machine shop to get it fixed. I don't like taking chances. It'll Just mean my paint job is getting less and less likely lol

Anyways, thanks again for all the help so far and thanks for reading
 
Did you forget to attach the picture you mention in the post above?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor