Must have been the final years of it. Never seen one. Camaro/ Firebirds yes
HELP Diagnosing- not sure where to start...
- Thread starter MakeMineaMonte
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In the last couple of years the base V6s for Monte Carlos switched to TBI. However, the base Buick V6s remained with CCC Dualjet carbs until the end of G body production.
Probably why I never saw them. Most of the ones I saw were Buick power. By then the front wheel drive cars were popping radiators left and right. I ran a radiator shop up until 95’. Sold the shop to my brother and he still has some of the ANOS heater cores and radiators for GM, Ford and some foreign cars. He’s a Mopar nut so all those he sold.
So I replaced the ignition coil which didn't solve the issue. I don't want to keep throwing money at the problem, so before I replace the ignition module, I'll check the fuel filter; how do I check to see that I am getting fuel and how do I check the fuel pump?
PS- yes, it's the Qjet carb which I rebuilt a couple years ago. The CCC system is all there and working, or at least has been until this came up.
Checking the fuel pump on a non-running engine is a literal crapshoot.
A mechanical pump like you would have if stock can be weak, but, still push gas. Even putting a pressure gauge on the line doesn't work well because a pump can be weak and still build pressure, but, not sustain that pressure once fuel gets released into the induction.
Same can happen with an electric fuel pump. I had a fiero with an in tank electric pump. It'd hum. It'd build pressure. In fact. You could pull the injector and It'd drip enough fuel to let the engine idle, but, plugged into the TB it could run the engine.
Except for the fact that when cold and with a new battery charged up it wouldn't start I'd say it mimicked when an 88 CSC I had got contaminated gas tank and the fuel sock would clog restricting flow. It'd run and move a short distance if everything settled in tank. Then, it might refire briefly then shut down and not start. But, allowed to sit long enough It'd later refire, briefly. Had to drop tank to fix.
However, I'm leaning against that since it never would refire at all.
You want to see if any gas is getting to pump just disconnect the rubber line coming out, put a glass jar to catch what comes out, and have the engine cranked while holding the line in the jar.
Your fuel filter is where the metal line connects to carb recessed into the body amd spring loaded. A 2 minute check as well.
Best way I know of to check a weak pump, but not fool proof, and, I wouldn't try unless the removed filter was clean and the gas headed to a jar was clear, is, try briefly running the car with a new filter and then without a fuel filter installed. If it won't run with a new properly inserted filter, but, will without it, you know the pump is too weak to push through the resistance and keep the engine fed.
Before you changed the coil, did you verify that you had no spark? Without knowing that you had a no spark condition, you rolled the dice and changed the coil. At this point, do you still have a no spark condition or not?
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