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TURNA

TURNA

Geezer
Jul 24, 2009
6,574
8,448
113
Socialist NY
The woodgrain is a veneer it will peel off.

I did it to my Cutlass dash inserts.

This product works amazing is water based and will not damage the plastic.

Spray it on. let it sit for a minute or two and use a plastic razor blade to peel it off.

When you paint it just make sure the first two coats are a very light dusting.

SEM landau black with SEM semi gloss/matte clear


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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006RUJ2D8/?tag=gbody-20

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81cutlass

Royal Smart Person
Feb 16, 2009
1,521
1,982
113
Western MN
I'll have to try that adhesive stuff out. I really like how those Cutlass dash pieces turned out, worth a try on mine!!

In progress news tonight I spent more time than I wanted cleaning and reassembling the trans. Changed filter and tail shaft seal, did the governor mod, cleaned about another pound of oily dirt of the trans pan and bolts, hooked up the shifter again, found out a GN used a different plug on the trans for TCC than the 2+2 305 sbc for some odd reason.
 

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Blake442

Blake442

Geezer
Apr 24, 2007
6,748
1,025
113
Minneapolis
I have a little left-over woodgrain vinyl from my wagon...
You should also be able to get some various shades/patterns in small sheets online as well, check ebay
 
8

81cutlass

Royal Smart Person
Feb 16, 2009
1,521
1,982
113
Western MN
I have a little left-over woodgrain vinyl from my wagon...
You should also be able to get some various shades/patterns in small sheets online as well, check ebay
Sounds good, I'll check to see what I can find, if I cant find anything good I might take you up on your offer to try your leftover vinyl.

I might need to borrow your stud weld gun again to pull the dent out of that sport coupe hood this spring anyways.
 
8

81cutlass

Royal Smart Person
Feb 16, 2009
1,521
1,982
113
Western MN
Rant of the day- went to 3 stores in town to hunt down a) an exhaust donut for the downpipe and b) a relay holder

Found neither. Well advance could get it in 3 days for $16, or $10 on rock auto shipped for 3 days. Man do parts stores suck....

Some good and bad news.

Good news- the old 3.8 is gone for $100, not bad!
1547180231187-png.103520


The feed and return lines are in place, put the harness in place better, self tapped one bracket to the steel receiver drier bracket and the other clamp to the AC box and took the interior apart a bit to find out where to drill the hole for the harness into the cabin. Need to grab a 2 1/4" hole saw from the store tomorrow. .
1547180270233-png.103521


Bad news is the GN harness doesn't share firewall connectors with the fuse box from the century. The old firewall connector went with the engine I sold (I didn't want to cut and splice 25 wires anyways) so I have to find a GN fuse box and swap that.
 
dirtywhiteboy

dirtywhiteboy

Master Mechanic
Jan 6, 2009
301
143
43
Dale Hollow Lake, Tn
Bummer about the fuse panel.

BTW, I needed to say..... This is a bad ass project!
 
8

81cutlass

Royal Smart Person
Feb 16, 2009
1,521
1,982
113
Western MN
Well more road blocks.

I sold that 3.8 with the old harness since I thought I could just plug the turbo harness into the century fuse block, I cant. Thought I can just swap fuse boxes, but its not the fuse box that I need its the whole darn dash harness since the engine harness plugs into that. Now I have to either find another 80 3.8 engine harness so it plugs into my factory dash harness block or bug the guy who bought the engine and see if he will cut that plug off and mail it to me. Blah. I have to cut the two ends off the old harness and the new harness and butt connect the wires.

The headlight, wipers and horn harness is totally different than the turbo buick harness anyways so if I do swap the fuse box plug I'd have to swap the light harness too so that is totally out.

Also, tried finding the port on the dash cluster by the speedometer to put the fiber optic sensor for the vehicle speed sensor and didnt see one. I am used to all 81+ cutlass and GP harnesses having a little hole behind the speedometer to look at the reluctor wheel and that box in the picture below translates it to the PCM. I have that box out of my 2+2 but no place for it to mount in the cluster. I also need to tear the dash apart in my 2+2 again to find those missing plugs in the picture below I stole off ebay. I must have taken them off when i removed the VSS buffer and didn't clip them.

1547337672442-png.103636


Other bad news, I bought a DIN 1.5 radio out of an S10 to replace the garbage shaft radio in the car, I assumed it had the 3 plug older GM conenctors, the orange, grey and black plugs that are separate, but it has the newer 1990's style "spade" connectors. Salvage yard must have grabbed the wrong one or listed it wrong. I either need to buy the right plug side radio or buy the later 90's style single plug for the DIN 1.5 delco radio.

Other problems, i tried setting the cam sensor using the "i'm cheap not buying the cap that tells you when in time and use a multi meeter instead" method, and either i'm a moron and am doing it wrong or the cam sensor is shot.

I dont have voltage in the harness yet (go back to the fuse box plug section in this post to understand why) so I thought i would hook the leads up to the 12V battery. I have voltage and tried setting it but the signal wire won't output the signal it's supposed to. It should put either output 0-2V or 12V depeding on rotation by probing between the middle signal wire and ground. I get like 0 to .2 volts when I probe between those wires. Only way I get the actual voltage on/off is to probe between the 12V hot in and the signal wire.

I did manage to route the engine harness in the cabin for the PCM which required loosening the fender bolts to squeeze the grommet in between the air box and fender and built a bracket to hold the PS resovior.

Built the harness for inside the car, I stole the PCM to OBD plug harness from the 2+2 last summer so I just had to repin and recrimp.

A PCM kick panel is on the way and all i need to do is put ignition voltage to the wire going to the PCM and a ground to the OBD plug and thats done. I guess I do need to find the plugs in the 2+2 for the VSS buffer still.

1547338404320-png.103649
 
pagrunt

pagrunt

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 14, 2014
3,354
3,650
113
Shelocta, Pa
Other bad news, I bought a DIN 1.5 radio out of an S10 to replace the garbage shaft radio in the car, I assumed it had the 3 plug older GM conenctors, the orange, grey and black plugs that are separate, but it has the newer 1990's style "spade" connectors. Salvage yard must have grabbed the wrong one or listed it wrong. I either need to buy the right plug side radio or buy the later 90's style single plug for the DIN 1.5 delco radio.
GM does/did make an adapter harness for newer radios to older pigtails. I'll have to get into the garage to find the box with the p/n.
 
pagrunt

pagrunt

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 14, 2014
3,354
3,650
113
Shelocta, Pa
That adapter harness is p/n 16140051. It includes the harness itself to adapt the newer radio to older three plug set up, memory pigtail wired in, antenna adapter.
 

Attachments

Turbo Zach

Turbo Zach

Royal Smart Person
Sep 8, 2015
1,309
1,996
113
50130
The harness problems was one of my worries when I built mine. That is one of the reasons I went with the Sniper instead of a factory intake. I do have a spare MSD distributor. I might sell it to you, but I rather keep it. Like a week ago there was a Bigstuff ECU and harness for sale for like 400 bucks. I thought that might be a better route if one wanted to do this swap. Probably gone now. I think I would have to go drink a beer and come back to it tomorrow. Better luck!
 

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