Trying to locate a photo or even just a pencil drawing of the vacuum hoses sticker that is under the hood. Mine is in bad shape so I can't tell where everything goes. Thanks.
Does anyone have a car with an olds 260 4.3L in it?
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Thanks for posting the picture. I actually already have that one from my service manual. It doesn't show the connections to the vapor canister which is what I am looking for, though. But, again, thanks for lending a hand.
About an hour ago I put on my uncles old glasses (they let me see up close) and I studied what is left of the sticker under the hood. I think I was able to make out what I needed. As far as I can tell, the vapor canister vents to connection K on the carb which is the very bottom large connector at the front of the carb. If someone can look on their carb and see what they have hooked up to that port for confirmation that would be nice. Otherwise, I'll just try it this weekend after I replace all of the old crusty vacuum hoses.
The car is a little tough to start but runs pretty good it is going. I found a few problems with the vacuum lines so I hope that when I fix them it starts better.
About an hour ago I put on my uncles old glasses (they let me see up close) and I studied what is left of the sticker under the hood. I think I was able to make out what I needed. As far as I can tell, the vapor canister vents to connection K on the carb which is the very bottom large connector at the front of the carb. If someone can look on their carb and see what they have hooked up to that port for confirmation that would be nice. Otherwise, I'll just try it this weekend after I replace all of the old crusty vacuum hoses.
The car is a little tough to start but runs pretty good it is going. I found a few problems with the vacuum lines so I hope that when I fix them it starts better.
Also check the hard plastic vacuum lines that go from the engine to the heater & AC for breaks. You can splice them back together with rubber hoses. The bodies of the 2 barrel carbs come loose from the carb base. Remove carb, turn it upside down and tighten the screws. Knock out the idle screw block-off caps while you have the carb off. Re-install it with a new base gasket. Check that EGR valve is not stuck in the open position. Check the 3/8" PCV hose from carb to the PCV valve for leaks, especially at the carb connection. Check your choke pull-off valve on pass front side of carb, they often leak. :idea: A good way to check for vacuum leaks is to spray Gumout carb cleaner on suspected spots. The engine will speed up when you find a leak. Good luck.
Mine is a little rough to start comparing to a fuel injected car but it starts. I have to pump the gas a few times then crank it ove then pump a few more times but it starts and runs fine. I'll look at my vacum hoses tonight when I get home and take a pic of what you need if I still have that one hooked uped. I unhooked a few and pluged a few that it didn't really need when I pulled the air pump off.
Thanks for the info. Mine usually starts up after about 7 or so seconds of cranking when it is cold. I have to pump the gas a little. It's a fine line because if I pump it too much it floods and then it won't start at all for awhile. Also, if I drive it a bit and stop to get gas or something it is hard to start. I almost ran my battery down trying to start it after a fill up. So, I have some work ahead of me.
I think I have all of my vacuum lines hooked up correctly now but it didn't improve the starting any at all. So next I might check the timing and vacuum advance to see how that is. Do these cars have points? I haven't lifted the distributor cap to see what is in there, yet. I'm still learning.
I think I have all of my vacuum lines hooked up correctly now but it didn't improve the starting any at all. So next I might check the timing and vacuum advance to see how that is. Do these cars have points? I haven't lifted the distributor cap to see what is in there, yet. I'm still learning.
The Choke is nearly impossible for most mech to set and get it right. The best I've had Pro work wise resulted in my carefully pumping the peddle twice half way and turn the key when the battery is up like it suppose to be, she fires right up.
The story began with a water leak at the front of the engine from under the intake manifold gasket and ended after spending over $1300 in parts, repairs and adjustments. And Im still not happy with. One very old mech told me to dump the new rochester I had put in it and get a Holly 7448 350 CFM, an adapter and low mounting air cleaner so it'l fit under the hood, then plug the emmission hoses etc, but Dump the Rochester!!!
The story began with a water leak at the front of the engine from under the intake manifold gasket and ended after spending over $1300 in parts, repairs and adjustments. And Im still not happy with. One very old mech told me to dump the new rochester I had put in it and get a Holly 7448 350 CFM, an adapter and low mounting air cleaner so it'l fit under the hood, then plug the emmission hoses etc, but Dump the Rochester!!!
Olds 260
No point distributors after '73. But definately install a good HEI cap/rotor.
79CutSupreme,
it's unfortunate you got stuck paying $1,300 to fix your's! Instead of swapping out carb for a small Holley, It'd be better, not to mention cheaper by just Installing a 4-brl manifold, and Quadrajet carb from a '80-85 307.
But if you decide to tear more into it, and want more out of the 260, toss the heads, pick up a set of "5A" heads; and exhaust manifolds from '80-85 307, polish the ports and combustion chambers, then mill them 0.050" to get 7.86:1 compression. But you'll NEED TO notch the intake side of the bores for valve clearance. And go with #14-240 cam, #14-060 valve springs from Supercars Unlimited along with a Cloyes dbl roller timing chain!
No point distributors after '73. But definately install a good HEI cap/rotor.
79CutSupreme,
it's unfortunate you got stuck paying $1,300 to fix your's! Instead of swapping out carb for a small Holley, It'd be better, not to mention cheaper by just Installing a 4-brl manifold, and Quadrajet carb from a '80-85 307.
But if you decide to tear more into it, and want more out of the 260, toss the heads, pick up a set of "5A" heads; and exhaust manifolds from '80-85 307, polish the ports and combustion chambers, then mill them 0.050" to get 7.86:1 compression. But you'll NEED TO notch the intake side of the bores for valve clearance. And go with #14-240 cam, #14-060 valve springs from Supercars Unlimited along with a Cloyes dbl roller timing chain!
Convert it to electric choke, much easier to set. Plug the vacuum port, behind the choke coil and remove the gasket. Your choke pull off may be opening too much also.
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