Door hinge pin replacement

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84GP455

G-Body Guru
Jun 19, 2007
779
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Methuen Ma.
I am about to replace the hinge pins on my doors and i would like to know if this can be done with the door still on. I did one 20 years ago when i replaced one of my doors but the door was off i would like to do it with the doors on. I ordered the spring remover tool so that it will be easier but any advice would be nice!
 
I've done many and never found the room to work with the door on. It's a drag removing the door, but the benefit of working on a workbench with the hinge in a big vise is reward enough. To easy realignment I spray some primer paint at the hinge while it's still on so I have a template to guide me.
 
I thought that with the spring remover tool that i could take the spring out of the hinge with the door on and would not need a vise for spring removal. I know that i did use a vise to remove the spring the last time but i did not have the spring remover tool.
 
You don't need a vice for spring removal, but it sure helps when you have to drill out the old hole for the insert. The spring tool is to compress the spring safely so it doesn't take your eye out if it gets away. Also I've come across some badly elongated hinge holes that needed welding closed, then drilling for the inserts. Were you planning on doing one hinge at a time, and leaving the other bolted on? Trust me, working on the hinge in a bench vise is the best way.
 
Bonnewagon said:
You don't need a vice for spring removal, but it sure helps when you have to drill out the old hole for the insert. The spring tool is to compress the spring safely so it doesn't take your eye out if it gets away. Also I've come across some badly elongated hinge holes that needed welding closed, then drilling for the inserts. Were you planning on doing one hinge at a time, and leaving the other bolted on? Trust me, working on the hinge in a bench vise is the best way.
Well i did use the vise to remove the spring the last time and it worked fine but, 1.) I don't have a vise this time 2.) the pins and bushings are intact and the hinges are not worn or bent or elongated. Do i still have to drill out the bushings? Yes i was planning on changing one hinge at a time, i may not even have to change the bottom ones just the ones with the springs. I am doing this job alone so i really don't want to take the doors off. That's like taking the side of a tank off!
 
If I recall correctly. I was able to do the hinge pins on my drivers door probably 20+ yrs ago without completely removing the door. I used a floor jack to help support the door while I removed the hinges one at a time. At least I think I did it that way...senior moment :?
As for replacing the bushings. They don't have to be drilled out, but driven out.

This time I rebuilt all my hinges with the doors off. Well replacement doors anyway. No sense putting new doors on with worn bushings and pins...and I acquired the spring tool as well. Harbor Freight actually sells it, but I got mine from Eastwood.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, that's exactly what i planned on doing, support the door with a floor jack and take one pin out at a time. And hopefully the bushings will come out without much hassle. I will post again if i succeed in doing it this way as soon as i get the tool delivered, I already have the pins and bushings.
 
Sometimes you can't reach the "tangs' that hold the pins in to grind them off. If you are just removing the pins, and the holes are fine, then yeah, it's a pop-out and pop-in job. But if the holes are worn at all, the remedy is to drill out the hole for new bushings, press them in, then your pins have a new hard surface to ride in. "Usually", if the hinge is sloppy, the hole is worn, but not always. The jack (pun intended :wink: )method works to get the door on/off and it's the only way to go unless you have The Hulk as a helper.
 
I was able to replace my top hinge pins without removing the doors. I supported the door with a jack and jackstand, used that spring compressor tool, and removed the entire hinge. I did mark everything and was able to get it all lined up correctly. Just be careful with the door edges. I would suggest taping the edges with some masking tape before you begin, just in case....
 
When I did this job on my '88 IROC, I replaced them with the greasable repair kit from top-downsolutions. I did this with the door still on the car. Used a ratchet strap around the door and used my engine hoist to hold the door up. Worked like a charm. And I tell you what, those greasable pins are the best. Well worth the money.
 
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