Dr Olds Burnout Machine

[olds307 and 403]

I need to stay in my little delusional world🤪. Pulled the plugs, nearly white to a light brown, so as lean as dare go. I did the compression test, not as good as I hoped but it is a 47 year old bottom end. 1-130, 3-100, 5-130, 7-130. 2-115, 4-125, 6-125, 8-125. Oil brought up the two low cylinders, so I will pick up some more Kleenflo Combustion Chamber Cleaner, it really works. I will fill the two low cylinders but crank it over without plugs before firing it up to not bend the rubber connectong rods.

 

[fleming442]

Isn't your wife a nurse? Have her grab an IV, dump some Seafoam or GM top engine cleaner in the bag and hook it to manifold vacuum. Use the shut off valve on the tube to let get up to temp, then open it up, drizzle it in, and watch the white smoke kill ALL the skeeters!

 

[64nailhead]

Have you done a leak down? Might only need some head work.

 

[DRIVEN]

Isn't your wife a nurse? Have her grab an IV, dump some Seafoam or GM top engine cleaner in the bag and hook it to manifold vacuum. Use the shut off valve on the tube to let get up to temp, then open it up, drizzle it in, and watch the white smoke kill ALL the skeeters!

We used to do that with an injection service. Vacuum hose in a bottle of top-end cleaner. Good results.

 

[olds307 and 403]

She is a Nurse, I get your idea. The GM top engine cleaner is about the only other thing I would try, I know it is also effective. Seafoam has done nothing as far as gaining compression for me. I usually spray Kleenflo Combustion Chamber Cleaner down the carb until it stalls out, spray a bunch more then remove plugs on the affected cylinders and soak overnight. Other than accidentally hydro locking my other 350, it gains compression. I have gained 15 to 30 psi on low cylinders. Even the bent rod cylinder gained 15 psi. It could be this motor is just more worn out. The oil was pretty darn black so probably neglected. Either way less tempting to swap on my #6 heads and 204/214 cam I have on the shelf and a higher stall. This car runs great as is, I should not have done a compression test.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well after let my miracle juice sit a few days and it did nothing on cylinder #3, still 100 psi, didn't check #2, defeated after #3. It could be just worn out, still runs great for what it is. What, an abused and neglected 47 year old motor, oh the humanity! I will probably drive it to the next city today and grab another can of the Kleenflo. I may throw a thing if flush in the motor and throw in 4L of 5W50 SM rated higher zinc full synthetic with a 1/2 liter of Duralube engine cleaner after a good drive for the oil change. Even if the compression doesn't improve, still way out performs the 260 and nearly matches the mpg. I might go another 1/2 turn leaner on the ATP, eek out an extra mpg.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So I took a 100 km round trip Thursday. It used a 1/4 tank, not bad, very windy. The cruise was surging a lot again at first, then was fine again. I threw in flush then a Hastings LF222 and 4L of 5W50 SM oil with a bit of Duralube sludge remover for the oil change.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well I got the regular, non air flow top on my air cleaner and painted the heat riser shield to go on. I just need get a heat riser tube and figure the vacuum routing to the heat riser. I also put in 5W50 full synthetic SM rated oil. I put on my winter rims, the 4 rims which came on my 70S with 13 year old 215/75R14 tires, it will not see above 50 km/hr, only me driving. The one set would not even turn on the front being 14" drum brake rims. The others fit but the back spacing is wrong runs on turns on the tie rod ends. I coated the whole underneath of the car with Fluid Film and Liquid Wrench Rust Inhibitor. I still need to block the hood scoop opening and unfortunately this car will be ready for a moderate amount of winter driving. Not happy about it but my Daughters are home this semester.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So, I used to have a TCI Fast Gate shifter on this car. One thing that annoyed me was the reverse lock out needed to be pulled up and down to work. So after I took it off, I added a spring. The release lever now works as it should. Why they don't they put in a 5 cent spring is beyond me. Part of the reason for the swap isn't just manual shifting fun. For some reason, ever since I put back in the stock column parts, I can barely get Park if want manual Low gear. So unless I push the lever hard on the column, the park pawl doesn't engage. Even then, I get in the car after work, my fat *ss will make the pawl slip a notch. Weird that factory parts won't work right, no matter the adjustment. The only thing it won't have, unless I find the wires and figure out where to get the micro switch in the right place, is the reverse lights. I plan to lock the column in Park. I need to put it in this weekend and fix the oil leak on the aftermarket gauge, pretty sure it is the 1/8" adapter, which I can't find anywhere. I actually used a piece off a metal air gun. It might be JB weld or Permatex Cold Weld, depending what I find around my place. It is a small leak.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Installed, I had to piss around to fully get Park gear. Nice, no I can run it closer to 5000 rpm, instead of the 4200 rpm shift points with nice, positive shifts.