Not knocking the Milwaukee Sawzall; I have one. That said, however, nothing beats a DeWalt 20Volt cordless, or heavier, when you are under a wreck and the nearest extension cord is a state or further away. Works great for heavy brush as well.
Nick
Driveshaft yoke stuck in transmission
- Thread starter Bonnewagon
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Not knocking the Milwaukee Sawzall; I have one. That said, however, nothing beats a DeWalt 20Volt cordless, or heavier, when you are under a wreck and the nearest extension cord is a state or further away. Works great for heavy brush as well.
Nick
Well, I got it out. She was really stuck in there for whatever reason. I installed a come-along between the front U-joint and the rear bumper. Even with that pressure I still had to use the BFH to carefully persuade it out. And yet I saw no reason why it was so stubborn. Not too rusty, no bent splines, no glue or sealer. Oh well, it's done. And I scored a NICE driveshaft.
JUst me, mind wandering along strange paths here but maybe it might worth trying to test fit that drive shaft on one of your own personal slush boxes just to see if it slides on to the splines on the output shaft like it ought to or if gets persnickety and gives you grief. Nice to know ahead of time instead of finding out at a critical moment instead.
I had brought along a spare yoke to plug the trans and not get an ATF shampoo. It slid right in, and came right out. Very little oil came out, but it was red. So the trans is not the issue. I have a Saginaw manual trans to test this new yoke on so we will see.
I have used my Sawzall for cutting tree limbs many times. Lightweight and easy to handle.
OK test time. My spare yoke goes right on and off no problemo. BUT, the yoke on this driveshaft also seems OK until you get it ALL the way on. Then we have a problem. For some reason the deep inside bottom of the yoke sticks. I lubed it with ATF, still happens. If you jam it all the way on, you must bang it back off. So the trick will be to install it with some space for movement. Then it slides in and out just fine. But if it gets bottomed, it sticks good.
Might be an A-Ha moment if you take a flashlight and shine it down the throat of that yoke. Two possibilities off hand here. One is that when the splines in the yoke were machined, the cutter either couldn't reach the bottom or didn't complete the cut at the bottom due to no room issues. Either that or, and again down at the bottom of the yoke, there is an accumulation of crap and crud that is binding up the yoke once you slide it on completely, or if the splines did get cut completely all the way down, the bottom few millimeters has been damaged some how.
No personal dog in this hunt but thinking those last couple of silly millimeters of splining, all the way at the bottom, got cut shallow instead of full depth due to the cutter head having to stop short to avoid smacking into the bottom of the bore. How the assembly line managed to slip the shaft on without having it jam, well they do have BFH's don't they??
Nick
No personal dog in this hunt but thinking those last couple of silly millimeters of splining, all the way at the bottom, got cut shallow instead of full depth due to the cutter head having to stop short to avoid smacking into the bottom of the bore. How the assembly line managed to slip the shaft on without having it jam, well they do have BFH's don't they??
Nick
Ideally, the slip yoke should be bottomed, and then backed out approximately 1" for proper installation. At the worst, you may need a new slip yoke, if you decide to use that shaft.
The yoke hasnt been cut off a bit allowing it to go on deeper into the yoke than it was meant too. Saw guy a do that that , had the end messed up from dropping the drive shaft and boogered up the end. He took a sawzall and cut about 1/2" off.
Well I do have the spare that I use for temporary transmission plugging. That one bottomed perfectly. All I would need to do is swap it over, with a new U-joint if the grease is black and old.
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