engine and fuel system swap
- Thread starter MartellCarlo
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Damn...I just filled up before parking haha...but alright, Thx for all the good info. You guys rock. Suds n garage kind of day today.
Also, would it be any different to just remove the inline screen filter since there is already a filter in the tank?
Honestly you would do better to remove the sender and the sock. I mean, that car's had 33 years of crud build-up if it's the original tank / sender. As for the full tank or fuel you can get a small hand pump from Harbor Freight for like $4 ~ $5 bucks to get the fuel out. Also try to put an inline pressure gauge on it too, that way you know you're getting 7psi and not higher / lower. Too much fuel can cause stalling too since you don't have a bypass / return line; back-pressure builds up and it can't push anymore fuel. Another restriction could be in the sender's fuel line, again might have crud / clog in it.
The pump will get hot, more so if there's a restriction or it has to pull fuel from a long distance. That's why OEMs place the pump inside the tank and the aftermarket in-tank pumps last longer - the fuel helps keep the pump cool. Not having a vented cap or not venting to charcoal canister (if not bad) will create a pressure problem in the tank, causing stalling.
The pump will get hot, more so if there's a restriction or it has to pull fuel from a long distance. That's why OEMs place the pump inside the tank and the aftermarket in-tank pumps last longer - the fuel helps keep the pump cool. Not having a vented cap or not venting to charcoal canister (if not bad) will create a pressure problem in the tank, causing stalling.
Well I dropped the tank got to the sending unit, removed the intank sock filter, put it all back together and good to go!!! Thanks to all with the great knowledge. 8)
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