Engine running hot in traffic

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I've chased this problem before. You have one of three things going on. Either too much initial timing, which I kinda doubt, not enough airflow at idle, or not enough water flow at idle. Are you using all the stock pulleys off the 305? If so it's not a water flow issue. Many aftermarket pullies are smaller and slow the water pump down.
 
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What amperage do the Intrepid fans pull? I can tell you my Stratus fans have fried many relays and thermal switches. I think one 40 amp relay isn't enough. The fans are cheap at the junk yard, the controllers are not. I have had 0 luck with the cheap and mid priced controllers.
I have cloud car fans on my car also and I wired one to a controller, and the other to a relay for always on when key on. Did you rewire the fan motors so they were always on high, or did you try to make use of the high/low wiring that they came with stock?
 
Here is a Wiring Diagram I would recommend for a dual fan set-up:
Fan control higlowdiagram.jpg
 
I have cloud car fans on my car also and I wired one to a controller, and the other to a relay for always on when key on. Did you rewire the fan motors so they were always on high, or did you try to make use of the high/low wiring that they came with stock?
Always on high and I now have a manual toggle switch that is fused and hooked directly to the battery. I have blown 2 relay boards on my Flexalite controller, I may just hook it to one fan when I get a replacement board. The other fan will stay hooked to the toggle switch and also the second relay and I may be just bypass the push in probe since it isn't working.
 
I've chased this problem before. You have one of three things going on. Either too much initial timing, which I kinda doubt, not enough airflow at idle, or not enough water flow at idle. Are you using all the stock pulleys off the 305? If so it's not a water flow issue. Many aftermarket pullies are smaller and slow the water pump down.
Yes i reused all the stock pulleys off the 305. I also forgot to mention also thay Iput on a high flow aluminum
I'm betting that the fan clutch doesn't engage until close to 200*. Take that thing off and put a pair of intrepid fans and a relay on it if you want it to run cooler.
And yes it doesn't seem to engage until temp reaches around 200 degrees.

Should I get a new fan clutch? Thought about putting one of those black plastic 7 blade fans on it. I run those on my demo derby truck and it pushes a lot of air and keeps that engine cool when I make it talk for about 20 minutes wide open.
 
I've chased this problem before. You have one of three things going on. Either too much initial timing, which I kinda doubt, not enough airflow at idle, or not enough water flow at idle. Are you using all the stock pulleys off the 305? If so it's not a water flow issue. Many aftermarket pullies are smaller and slow the water pump down.
Yes i reused all the stock pulleys off the 305. I also forgot to mention also thay I put on a high flow aluminum water pump.
I'm betting that the fan clutch doesn't engage until close to 200*. Take that thing off and put a pair of intrepid fans and a relay on it if you want it to run cooler.
And yes it doesn't seem to engage until temp reaches around 200 degrees.

Should I get a new fan clutch? Thought about putting one of those black plastic 7 blade fans on it. I run those on my demo derby truck and it pushes a lot of air and keeps that engine cool when I make it work for about 20 minutes wide open.
 
Always on high and I now have a manual toggle switch that is fused and hooked directly to the battery. I have blown 2 relay boards on my Flexalite controller, I may just hook it to one fan when I get a replacement board. The other fan will stay hooked to the toggle switch and also the second relay and I may be just bypass the push in probe since it isn't working.
You can just cut the wires to the probe and use a thermal switch, as long as the probe is a switch and not a thermocouple.
 
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200* isn't too hot. That's where the fan clutch is designed to engage so it doesn't get much hotter. A flex fan is fixed and will keep the engine closer to thermostat temp assuming the rest of the cooling system is good but will cost power and mileage.
 
You can just cut the wires to the probe and use a thermal switch, as long as the probe is a switch and not a thermocouple.
I stand corrected, bad relay, brand new! It just clicks touching the two wire connections on the probe. This is my issue with electric fans, the shitty controllers.
 
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