Engine running hot in traffic

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My recipe for cooling old school GM small block engines:
-Fresh ethylene glycol in a 50/50 mixture
-HD water pump (closed impeller)
-four core aluminum radiator
-180 degree thermostat
-HD mechanical fan
-Stock pullys
So with this recipe, what temp does your engine run? 180?
 
Where is your temp sensor located and what are you using to track the temperature? More than once I've seen a high reading then moving the probe point caused the temps to drop by 15 degrees using the same gauge. Grab a laser temp gun from Harbor Freight and shoot the engine at different points.

Secondly, 200 degrees isn't a problem, never was. I think we all got 180 degree thermostat stuck in our heads and thought that is where we should run, I'm not getting antsy until I'm seeing 230 from a couple places on the engine for an extended amount of time. Aggressive timing and over-bore can affect temps too.
 
Where is your temp sensor located and what are you using to track the temperature? More than once I've seen a high reading then moving the probe point caused the temps to drop by 15 degrees using the same gauge. Grab a laser temp gun from Harbor Freight and shoot the engine at different points.

Secondly, 200 degrees isn't a problem, never was. I think we all got 180 degree thermostat stuck in our heads and thought that is where we should run, I'm not getting antsy until I'm seeing 230 from a couple places on the engine for an extended amount of time. Aggressive timing and over-bore can affect temps too.
The sensor is in the side of the driver side head. Its a brand new auto meter gauge and sensor. The efi sensor is in the intake and it reads the same as the gauge. I have shot it with a temp gun and reads pretty close to the gauge reading. My water pump is an aluminum, high flow. Could this be pushing the water to fast and not have time to cool it in the radiator?

By everyones response though, I think I may be worried about nothing. 210 is ok I guess. I will try some of the things mentioned though just to see what happens.
 
Great deal that several points say the same temp and you checked already. High flow could certainly be causing the water not to cool by moving too fast but I think you are probably good. I do know on fuel injected cars I have tuned, I run them a little hotter and they run smoother.
 
Cooler engines (160-180) make more outright power than hot ones (190-210) but that's the only upside.

https://www.google.com/amp/www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-1004-pontiac-fiero-hot-air-engine/amp/

Not to argue but the iron duke was a horrible engine and that opening statement saying that engineers wanting more power needed to cram in more air and more fuel belies what you are doing with your turbo LS swap.......

Cooler intake charge makes more power, cooler engines only make a modicum of more power all things being equal and the engine being in prime tune.
 
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Not to argue but the iron duke was a horrible engine and that opening statement saying that engineers wanting more power needed to cram in more air and more fuel belies what you are doing with your turbo LS swap.......

Cooler intake charge makes more power, cooler engines only make a modicum of more power all things being equal and the engine being in prime tune.


Oh, more of a devil's advocate thing here. And you're absolutely right about the iron Duke. More about Smokey and his ability to make power from anything and his willingness to try different things.

Conventional logic (I subscribe to it) says cold dense air makes power.
 
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