Engine Selection
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Fox80 said:
That's true and will probably be true forever. The thing that grinds my gears, especially about the people on this forum, is why everybody's so hung up on a few extra dollars when it comes to their engine choice. Since when did this great hobbie of ours become about building cheap-*ss cars instead of COOL cars? If people are going to fret about the few extra bucks it takes to build a non-Chevy engine then I think they might want to consider a new hobby. Personally I'd rather have a cool, clean, non-butchered, non-bastardized car regardless if I had to spend a few extra bucks doing so. If it was about going the fastest for the cheapest money, I would just ditch the G-Body and go a different route all together.
This message isn't aimed at you specifically Fox80 but too all the other cheap-*ss people who want to dump Chubby's in their cars just so they can save a couple of bucks. We should be building COOL cars guys, not cookie-cutter, catalog, cheap-*ss cars!
Quote : One thing people seem to forget, or their ignorance on physics is to blame, is that horsepower isn't worth the horse it road in on without the torque to back it up.
This is why I stated that the combo needs to be compatible. An engine is an engine, some people need big blocks, some small. I've had both - a stag one Buick rebuilt by a reputable company .030 over head work cam headers that ran a respectable 12.78(w/slicks). My regal has a stock L-82 350 I bought at a swap meet for $100 threw a $90 re-ring kit in it (std bore) solid flat tappet cam, iron chevy 2.02 heads that walks on the big block - Once again personal preference - If you start talking $$$$ you know the winner.
This is why I stated that the combo needs to be compatible. An engine is an engine, some people need big blocks, some small. I've had both - a stag one Buick rebuilt by a reputable company .030 over head work cam headers that ran a respectable 12.78(w/slicks). My regal has a stock L-82 350 I bought at a swap meet for $100 threw a $90 re-ring kit in it (std bore) solid flat tappet cam, iron chevy 2.02 heads that walks on the big block - Once again personal preference - If you start talking $$$$ you know the winner.
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DoubleV said:
I agree with you DoubleV, I didn't say this is what I would do, but the OP said he wanted the car to run strong 11's and have it be the least amount of work. I think once you take the "daily driver" part out if a car it has lost it's cool factor, but it is his car so he can do what he wants. I have never even drag raced a car in my life on a true drag strip, probably never will, drag racing is not even talked about in Western NY, guys do the bragging by strapping their cars to a chassis dyno. The above mentioned Caprice owner drives that car almost every day, and I don't believe it has ever seen a track. Hell I put a sh*t-ton of money into a 260 so obviously I don't believe in going the easy/cheap route for motor selection
Fox80 said:
X2 Fox80.
The second that 88olds32 said he isn't much of a mechanic and he want's to be in he 12s or 11s at the track we were talking sbc. I personally wouldn't do that because I am a full mechanic and I put a Gbody in the 12s before. Until fools told the owner that he needed torque over HP and against my advice the idiot changed the cam i put in and then he slowed to the 13s. it was A BBO 455 with Mondello straps on the mains. It had a 3500 stall Th350 transmission with 373 gears. It ran 12.4s with slicks all day long and an 11.7 on a 100 shot.
My point is if you don't know what your doing (No offense 88olds32 ) You need to be working with a Chevy not an Olds.
All that is needed (NO MATTER WHAT ENGINE USED!!!!) is.... 500 HP at 6500 rpm in a Gbody and your in the low 12s knocking on the door of the 11s. Match that up with durable parts front to rear and THAT'S IT!!! Thing is... most can't build 500HP @ 6500 rpm and up. It's not a friendly street car so, most don't do it.
That car I put together was a 81 Regal with a C headed 455 Olds, 11:1 compression, had a Crowler cam and was shifted at 6 grand. It twisted a driveshaft, broke a motor mount, and cracked a transmission case on runs but, when fixed with good parts it ran low 12s consistently. I did it with a BBOlds but MANY have done it with small block Chevys because it's easier and fun to build.
And the point is to enjoy the track. When his skills get better then he can build a good Olds to run like that if he chooses.
T
Now that everyone has busted your balls about a SBC in an Olds lol... dollar for dollar, especially where your self stated "inexperience" comes into play, your not going to beat SBC for dollar per HP.88olds32 said:
My best advice is talk to the local guys, cruise nights, car shows and drag strip. You will be surprised to learn a good portion if not most of them are using a motor built by someone else. Find out who, when you hear one name popping up repeatedly and guys are satisfied with their equipment, go see the shop that built it. 9 times out of 10 they will have a "house brand" crate motor priced right. You can then work off that basis with the shop to hit your power goals.
I see zero wrong with a SBC in an Olds lol... then again I'm a canuck and we like our factory SBC equipped olds's lol.
If you're not much of a mechanic then the last thing you need is a race car. Regardless of what everyone thinks is a better engine you will need to maintain it, tune it, and be able to know exactly what is going on with it unless you have a sh*t ton of money to pay someone else to do all that.
As far as what everyone thinks is a better engine that all comes down to opinion. I find that Pontiac guys are generally the biggest dickheads when it comes to brand loyalty but the Olds crowd is closing in on that title it seems. Whatever you choose I think you should start smaller. Instead of shooting for 11-12s maybe just shoot for a car that is more dialed in and is reliable. Once the suspension, brakes, and rear end are good to go then start looking around for engines and transmissions. Just my opinion. Good luck and have fun because it's only money :lol:
As far as what everyone thinks is a better engine that all comes down to opinion. I find that Pontiac guys are generally the biggest dickheads when it comes to brand loyalty but the Olds crowd is closing in on that title it seems. Whatever you choose I think you should start smaller. Instead of shooting for 11-12s maybe just shoot for a car that is more dialed in and is reliable. Once the suspension, brakes, and rear end are good to go then start looking around for engines and transmissions. Just my opinion. Good luck and have fun because it's only money :lol:
-83MONTESS- said:
That's true. I would also add that if you're not much of a mechanic then swapping in a different brand engine in your car isn't the smartest option either. You got an Olds 307 in your Cutlass? Great. Any other Olds engine will drop right in with no extra BS involved. That's a really good thing for a novice hot rodder.
I think it's time you rolled up your sleeves and tried fixing some of those oil leaks on your car. If there is nothing wrong with the engine don't toss it because of that. Your rocker covers are probably leaking and that would be a good place to start. Everyone likes to go faster but that comes w/ a price tag and an 11 sec car would be mucho $$$. Bracket racing levels the playing field so it doesn't mater how fast you are just if you can cut a light and your car is consistent. I've gone to the winners circle w/ are tow vehicle after losing a fuel pump in the car. Seat time is what you need and you have a good car to do it with. I've seen to many guys think they want to be racers, toss a bunch of money at it only to decide they don't.
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