Engine stalling in gear?

[custom442]

442...I'm not sure but like yourself I have read that it's necessary and I know builders who remove the inner spring....but I don't think it's necessary in a roller cam set up since there is no break in period for the roller cam and lifter set up...the flat tappet lifter actually spin and mate to the lobe on the camshaft which is the reason for the break in. You'll notice that with a roller cam set up you can use the same roller lifters if you change the cam which is not the case with a flat tappet set up...

since you're using a double spring I hope you have upgraded the rocker arm studs

I think you're right that it'd be different with a flat tap. cam. And also if it were a huge hp build, but it's weird that the pro's don't do that or at least they say.

I used a set of studs that came with the heads so they should be ok, and the rockers are the locking type (+rollers) so they should be fine for a long time without needing to be lashed

 

[pontiacgp]

:?

 

[DRIVEN]

Another reason for the high RPM is the "splash effect" of the oil at higher RPM that isn't present at idle. Rings actually break in over more time than the first 20 minutes. That's part of the reason for the recommended varying of the throttle. The vacuum that is produced under decceleration actually helps seat rings.
As for the rich idle and stalling -- The XE282 is a pretty radical cam. Your carb may need to step to a 6.5 or even 5.5 power valve. Also, you may need to crack open the secondary throttle plates. The adjustment is behind the secondary shaft on the passenger side. You should be able to get a small allen wrench on it (from the bottom side) without having to pull the carb off. This should allow you to close the primary plates and smooth out your idle. What is your manifold vacuum at idle now? Is it steady or does the needle bounce?

 

[Phoenyx]

Just a fresh idea. Maybe the problem is transmission or tourque converter related.

 

[custom442]

As for the rich idle and stalling -- The XE282 is a pretty radical cam. Your carb may need to step to a 6.5 or even 5.5 power valve. Also, you may need to crack open the secondary throttle plates. The adjustment is behind the secondary shaft on the passenger side. You should be able to get a small allen wrench on it (from the bottom side) without having to pull the carb off. This should allow you to close the primary plates and smooth out your idle. What is your manifold vacuum at idle now? Is it steady or does the needle bounce?

I haven't done a vacuum test yet cuz my friend who has this gauge is out of town for a week. I'll keep these ideas in mind, but I'm most likely going to take the car in to have the carb tuned by someone who knows these things a lot better than me. But first I need to buy my exhaust and have it welded in, then hook up my 3-wire alt. which I've been putting off for a while

That reminds me, does anyone have a diagram or schematic for wiring a 3 wire alternator? Or can explain it well?

 

[custom442]

Just a fresh idea. Maybe the problem is transmission or tourque converter related.

I was thinking it was the torque converter too, but then I got the trans. to finally shift in drive last night and it shifted very nice and smooth. I hooked up my shifter cable kinda quickly so I'm almost positive I just need to adjust the cable to engage fully in reverse. But the rpms do drop to around 700 rpms in drive, so I also know the carb isn't tuned correctly.

 

[pontiacgp]

:?

 

[custom442]

I have seen people trash an engine in the first 5 minutes and try to return engine parts claiming they were defective...

:shock: that would really suck to go through all that work puttin one together

I went through the whole break in thing, the only problem I'm having is my crank pulleys aren't rotating in a perfet circle...don't worry it's not so out of round that it's blatant... but I think I bolted the middle bolt on the outside of the pulley, the main bolt on the crank pulley that goes into the balancer -

I think this is supposed to screw into just the balancer correct? And not through the crank pulley also? That's the only thing I can think of that's making it rotate weird, the balancer works 100% so I know it's the pulley. Or it also could just be that they're cheap 10$ pulleys...

 

[custom442]

google says...


http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pon ... nator.html

lol, thanks I could've thought of that after a while 😳

 

[pontiacgp]

:?