EPIC FAIL! paint pro's help needed

[Blake442]

Looks like solvent popping from here... but don't hold me to it, as seeing it on the computer screen is a tad different than being there.

You mentioned earlier that you had some runs. If the clear went on too thick, or if the incorrect temperature reducer was used, the solvents will get trapped in the clear, and that is the result.

You'll want to buzz all that stuff down, reprime and redo it if you don't want to see it again.

 

[dirtywhiteboy]

are the "pops" in the base coat? The hardest part of a paint job other than getting the body straight is to clean the body and to keep it clean and dry and free of contaminants before painting.

If you can get some good shots of the problem areas head back to the supply store where you bought the paint. They usually have a guy who has seen every problem under the sun and can give you some help on solving it..

Not in the base, once I sand through the clear it's smoof!

base won't solvent pop unless you put the clear on before the base was flashed or contaminated. In the pics, it looks like contamination to me.
You should prime the spots of the trouble before you top coat again.

Also sometimes if your spraying in a not to great ventilated area the overspray will settle on your final coat and leave a rough overspray looking finish on the panel/spots.

If I was there I could tell you in 10 seconds but it's a lot harder to tell from pictures.

Yea the pics suck, but there are defiantly tiny holes in the clear. when wiped with wax remover you scan tell with a light looking close.

was it cold that night?did you leave your car in the garage overnight to dry and it was cold,thats what i meant to ask.

the car has been the garage for almost 3 years 😳 I had the heat turned up because it had been raining and I used rapid catalyst and I put it on heavy to assure plenty of room for the buffin, it seems the combo was too much on this day

Looks like solvent popping from here... but don't hold me to it, as seeing it on the computer screen is a tad different than being there.

You mentioned earlier that you had some runs. If the clear went on too thick, or if the incorrect temperature reducer was used, the solvents will get trapped in the clear, and that is the result.

You'll want to buzz all that stuff down, reprime and redo it if you don't want to see it again.

see Blake, yours might still be painted first. :evil:

I think I will sand the worst quarter down to the base (is 80 grit ok), reseal it and base/clear it make sure all is good....and back off of the heat too. I'm fairly sure the above combo is the problem tho.

I've watched my dad have paint run off on the floor and never do this. guess that was way before urethane tho 😳





Thank you everyone for your thoughts and comments. I feel much better about hitting it again, It will be next week tho.


Brian

 

[SafariWagon]

I am no expert, but I just took a 2 night paint class. What was the car stripped with? Paint stripper, media blaster, or just sanded? Guy teaching class said you have to neutralize stripper with water. Otherwise the chemicals work there way out of the pourus metal and ruin the paint.

 

[pontiacgp]

once you get it purfect with all our suggestions we'll all expect a free paint job ... :lol:

 

[dirtywhiteboy]

I am no expert, but I just took a 2 night paint class. What was the car stripped with? Paint stripper, media blaster, or just sanded? Guy teaching class said you have to neutralize stripper with water. Otherwise the chemicals work there way out of the pourus metal and ruin the paint.

it was 99% sanded, and that is correct. I once stripped a hood in dad's shop with stripper, sanded it with a da, washed it with grease and wax remover. My dad said "Make sure you wash that with water first" I didn't. As soon as the primer hit the metal it wrinkled like I have never seen. LESSON LEARNED!!! Boy was he pissed!

 

[dirtywhiteboy]

once you get it purfect with all our suggestions we'll all expect a free paint job ... :lol:

How about I just tell you how to do it!!! 😛

I have made a few look pretty good, but it takes a loooong time....

 

[360x]

I'm no expert and I haven't done enough cars to ever call myself a pro. I'll lend a little advice from a fellow home garager...

First thing (And most obvious) is to clean the heck out of your surface before you spray and every time after your surface dries with a tack rag. Do it on every layer. Don't get lazy. Wipe the car down with a tac rag. EVERY DRY LAYER. Your surface can never be too clean. You may be getting some dust/dirt falling from your cealing or somewhere in the garage. Clean the whole garage. To the point of insanity. I paint in my home garage and you'd be surprised how much dust just sits WAITING for you to paint. You may want to consider actually covering the cealing and walls of your garage with plastic sheets just to catch the dust. I know this is kinda basic, but so many people underestimate the power of hidden dust.

As stated above, strain your clear. NEVER leave the can open longer than you need to. Dust, much like a virus, sits around wating to hop in your clear and make your life miserable. Make sure your clear is clean. Same for your gun (Which may be the villan here). Make sure it's clean. Use a different gun for paint/primer-sealer/clear. This looks very much like theres some primer in your clear TO ME, but it could be dust or old clear. Make sure your clear isn't expired or close to being expired.

The stuff mentioned above you probably already did and checked. The gun is new, so as long as you're cleaning really good between surface changes then that eliminates the gun. If you used chemical stripper then yes, you do have to nutralize it, but if you're washing the car good that should help. I'm also assuming you did nothing like constantly touch the surface with bare hands, but that wouldn't cause trash.

Hell, strip back down to the primer layer. Even things out. Prime, seal and paint again. If it happens again, go buy some more clear, another generic gun JUST for clear and try again. I know this probably doesn't help but that's what I would do.

 

[360x]

One more thing I forgot. Check the containers that you measure and mix your chemicals in. They have to be super clean too. During my very first paint job, I cheaped out and got some measuring cups from Walmart and when I was measuring some primer, I noticed some white flakes in the primer. After examining further, the cup itself was flaking from the sides. I don't know if it was reacting from the paint or it was just flaking, but I had to dispose of the primer and the cup. Had I sprayed, there probably would have been grains of plastic in my paint similar to what you had.

Just an additional comment. You've probably already solved the issue by now. Maybe somebody painting will find it helpful.

 

[dirtywhiteboy]

UPDATE!

Today I painted the Jams on the doors. Only change was medium catalyst, and reduce the clear 10% with medium reducer. Much better flow with less paint....so far so good.

Thanks for everyone's input!!
Brian

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Glad to see it's coming out better! I had a solvent popping issue and had to live with it. I couldn't afford to repaint again. 😢